I have worried about the pistons and rings, but until now I did not know what to do about it. Never played with car engines as a kid. So Harbor Freight has compression testers fo $30 so I could test. But if the compression stinks, is there anything I could do about it? OTOH- starting has not been a problem. That develoiped after my attempt to clean the carb. It always started after a few pulls, but ran rough and needed to be intermettently choked to keep it going until warm. Not sure if that problem persists. Dave
> On Dec 20, 2019, at 5:53 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List > <[email protected]> wrote: > > Dave, > When an engine overheats, lubricants can’t provide the protection they are > designed for and parts will wear at an accelerated rate, specifically pistons > and rings. When that occurs, you tend to lose compression which results in a > hard starting condition. This will also usually lead to some oil consumption > that is manifested in the form of a grayish smoke. Low compression can > additionally create low power and incomplete combustion which results in poor > fuel economy and black smoke. If your engine is a 4 stroke model, check your > valve clearances as those can change with an overheating event. If you have > access to a compression gauge with the proper threaded adapter for you plug > size, you can compare cold compression readings with what is recommended in > the manual to determine any top end damage. > Chuck Gilchrest > S/V Half Magic > 83 35 Landfall > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 20, 2019, at 10:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List >> <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: >> >> I had my first rebuilding experience with my aging Suzuki 2.5 this month. >> I decided to do a carburetor rebuild as the motor was not starting or >> running well. Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I found several >> YouTube videos describing the process. I found it to be pretty >> straightforward to disassemble and reassemble. To my surprise, it looked >> really clean inside with no obvious problem areas. I used carb cleaner and >> replaced a few gaskets, new spark plug, put it back together. Then I >> disassembled the lower unit and greased and replaced gaskets and impeller >> there. I added lube and tried to start it. I took many many pulls to >> finally get it to start, and I was willing to write that off to needing to >> get fuel through an empty system. To my dismay, it was very hard to start >> every time I shut it down, even when fairly warm (harder than before >> disassembly). So I did not improve its performance at all as far as I can >> tell. I did not disassemble the cylinder head and did not find a YouTube >> for that adventure. The motor did have an overheat incident when the water >> pump failed a few years ago and has never run the same since, so I suspect >> that is part of the problem, but I can’t see how that would affect starting. >> Anyone have suggestions on whether it is worth further disassembly? >> Thanks- Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >> >>> On Dec 20, 2019, at 9:48 AM, David Risch via CnC-List >>> <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: >>> >>> A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some mystery outboard >>> questions. . Thank you to those who reached out. After solving the >>> problems I thought would share as to what were the problems and solutions. >>> >>> The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, unobtainium (according to >>> the previous overpaid and underperforming mechanic) needle valve. It was >>> the fuel petcock beneath the tank. It >>> seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious to me when the >>> engine was raised and dripping into the boat. When underway with all the >>> bits of water flying about it was not so discernable. >>> >>> The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing (actually it fell into the >>> lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear shift leg which protrudes up and >>> out of the lower drive leg. When put in reverse the leg engages (up) the >>> reverse bracket lock that prevent the engine from reversing itself out of >>> the water. You should see it midway up on the front side of the leg. >>> Without the gasket the exhaust gasses which normally flow down and out into >>> the water were escaping unmuffled. >>> >>> These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes became quickly >>> apparent once I started pulling things apart and figuring out how these >>> little marvels actually work. And also carefully observing the engine >>> while running on land. Lesson learned that although I can fix most things >>> I should not have be so hesitant with the outboards. And I know my fixes >>> are correct and I will not be cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck >>> with a still-not-running-right kicker. And have another boat buck to >>> spend on “funner” things. >>> Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either… >>> >>> David F. Risch >>> (401) 419-4650 >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269-3125
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
