Dave, When an engine overheats, lubricants can’t provide the protection they are designed for and parts will wear at an accelerated rate, specifically pistons and rings. When that occurs, you tend to lose compression which results in a hard starting condition. This will also usually lead to some oil consumption that is manifested in the form of a grayish smoke. Low compression can additionally create low power and incomplete combustion which results in poor fuel economy and black smoke. If your engine is a 4 stroke model, check your valve clearances as those can change with an overheating event. If you have access to a compression gauge with the proper threaded adapter for you plug size, you can compare cold compression readings with what is recommended in the manual to determine any top end damage. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 83 35 Landfall
Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 20, 2019, at 10:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I had my first rebuilding experience with my aging Suzuki 2.5 this month. I > decided to do a carburetor rebuild as the motor was not starting or running > well. Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I found several YouTube videos > describing the process. I found it to be pretty straightforward to > disassemble and reassemble. To my surprise, it looked really clean inside > with no obvious problem areas. I used carb cleaner and replaced a few > gaskets, new spark plug, put it back together. Then I disassembled the lower > unit and greased and replaced gaskets and impeller there. I added lube and > tried to start it. I took many many pulls to finally get it to start, and I > was willing to write that off to needing to get fuel through an empty system. > To my dismay, it was very hard to start every time I shut it down, even when > fairly warm (harder than before disassembly). So I did not improve its > performance at all as far as I can tell. I did not disassemble the cylinder > head and did not find a YouTube for that adventure. The motor did have an > overheat incident when the water pump failed a few years ago and has never > run the same since, so I suspect that is part of the problem, but I can’t see > how that would affect starting. Anyone have suggestions on whether it is > worth further disassembly? Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <pastedGraphic.tiff> > >> On Dec 20, 2019, at 9:48 AM, David Risch via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some mystery outboard >> questions. . Thank you to those who reached out. After solving the >> problems I thought would share as to what were the problems and solutions. >> >> The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, unobtainium (according to >> the previous overpaid and underperforming mechanic) needle valve. It was >> the fuel petcock beneath the tank. It >> seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious to me when the engine >> was raised and dripping into the boat. When underway with all the bits of >> water flying about it was not so discernable. >> >> The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing (actually it fell into the >> lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear shift leg which protrudes up and >> out of the lower drive leg. When put in reverse the leg engages (up) the >> reverse bracket lock that prevent the engine from reversing itself out of >> the water. You should see it midway up on the front side of the leg. >> Without the gasket the exhaust gasses which normally flow down and out into >> the water were escaping unmuffled. >> >> These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes became quickly apparent >> once I started pulling things apart and figuring out how these little >> marvels actually work. And also carefully observing the engine while >> running on land. Lesson learned that although I can fix most things I >> should not have be so hesitant with the outboards. And I know my fixes are >> correct and I will not be cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck with >> a still-not-running-right kicker. And have another boat buck to spend on >> “funner” things. >> Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either… >> >> David F. Risch >> (401) 419-4650 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
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