While I agree with, and respect Josh, having done the steering work on our 37/40+ with similar but not as bad a problem, plan on a minimum of 3 days work to pull & replace the idler plate. Given your comments about the condition, you need to plan on a bunch of other issues you can't see as of now. Get a GOOD surveyor, but weigh the cost of the survey compared to your price point in both time and effort to get it into the condition you'll want and need. You might even run the issues past the owner now, saying "Realistically, x, y, and z need repair, and that alone totals $xx,xxx. Will you be willing to take that and more off to get it back to a boat worth $yy,yyy? If not, walk away before even getting the survey.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <[email protected]> Date: 2/25/20 2:20 PM (GMT-06:00) To: C&C List <[email protected]> Cc: Josh Muckley <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression The original carbon steel idler is no longer available from edson. You'd have to make modifications to the deck in order to replace. I thought I remembered the idler being ~$400. Maybe I'm mistaken. The replacement cables are ~$100. The work isn't that hard but it is a little bit of a PITA.The window delamination would not seriously concern me. The engine water flow shouldn't be too hard to overcome. Sometimes an old impeller just takes on a set and fails to prime itself.The sails are gonna set you back ~$3500 to $5000 each to replace.Upholstery is gonna be expensive. $5k to $10kIf it's the boat you want and you can get a discount then I really haven't heard too much that would discourage me. I'm a risk taker and a DIYer....so YMMV.Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 17:52 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote:List, We looked at a 1990 34+ this weekend and I could use your input on two items that were most concerning. The boat was much more of a project boat than we anticipated unfortunately. We hoped to get out for a sail, but it's not leaving the slip before some work is done. So obvious issues are below and photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/V5YhFQzmjZwnCytf6Heavy Rusting at base of the steering pedestal: When I first got on board and noticed the steering was quite stiff and a bit 'grinding.' I thought the steering column lock was on. However, since the idler pulleys and quadrant are above the deck on the 34+ it was easy to see a pile of large and significant flakes of rust at the base of the pedestal where the cables run aft to the quadrant. This was visible after the quadrant cover that is part of the cockpit sole was lifted. The cables were also not even seated on the quadrant or the pulleys and were grinding on the gel coat. I have since determined that this rust must have been from the idler plate. The cables were also shot as you might expect, with broken strands. This appears to be about $700 or so in materials for cables and a new idle plates and pulleys. Question is, how difficult is this to address? I will say, that the fact that the steering cable was not even on the quadrant or pulleys gave me pause about the truthfulness of the owner. We had corresponded and talked about going out for a test sail and we drove quite a bit to go see the boat. If the cables were off my quadrant I am pretty darn sure I would notice. There was no way to turn the rudder so how would a test sail have been possible? Core delamination at port light: Another item that gave me pause was a split/de-laminated core at the forward portion of the fixed port light. It felt dry, but I could make it compress/decompress with very little effort. I was told it was due to the boat being lifted in the wrong area by the yard. I suppose this could have been true given that the area was about 3-4 aft of the forward bulkhead, where the sling should have been. (Again, as an owner, I clearly flag on the lifelines where the bulkheads are for the lift operator given that my C&C owner's manual on my Rob Ball 30-2 instructs that the slings should be placed there.) So, what is your take on this damage? Is it not a big deal or sign of potentially larger demons? Other items: No cooling water when the engine started and ran. The strainer was cleared and the through hull was open so my assumption is that the vanes on the impeller are either loose inside the water pump or have already migrated into the heat exchanger. I have not had to fix this issue before. Major PITA? Expensive?Leaks. There were a number of leaks in the cabin top where the tell tale drip of rotten core was showing. I am willing to understand a certain amount of this in a 30 y.o. boat, but there may be too much. Upholstery was shot. The video showed some ok looking upholstery, but it was much worse in real life. It was worn and stained in a number of places and I wondered if the foam was salvagable. What do you think a re-uphosltery job would cost on a 34+?Original Mainsail - A 30 y.o. mainsail is not going to flatten or point well. When I took the sail cover off there was a small football sized bees nest attached to the folds in the mainsail. About how much for a new mainsail on a 34+ with full battens and 3 reefs? Jib - Looked older, but I was told it was only sailed 1/2 dozen times and was 6-8 years old. I was not able to unfurl it all the way given the wind and being stuck in the slip. There was minor mildew spotting near the leach and the UV cover looked a bit tired. There was a bunch of old sailing junk and personal items on board so I was unable to get a good look in the cabinets and under berths since stuff was piled on them. In general the boat is not in sellable condition, but I want to use the experience to educate myself on these issues. Here is a link to some photos. I am keeping the location and boat name private since the owner says he is selling it. Thanks everybody. _______________________________________________
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