You can procure the coupler directly from PYI but you my have to call. They have corporate discounts if you ask. Or you can find them third party distributor's other online stores. I got mine at www.generalpropeller.com
Josh On Wed, Jun 17, 2020, 13:11 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Well, that story makes me even more inclined to try the Last Drop. > > > > And does this mean that you are not going to divulge your source for the > nice SS shaft Flange? > > There are even comments on your video page! > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2020 12:15 PM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > "If a picture is worth a thousand words, what is a video worth?" - Well > I suppose it depends on the framerate! Haha > > > > PYI (PSS shaft seal, Max-Prop, R&D Marine) states simply that reusing the > old solid coupling is wrong and likely to result in misalignment. Maine > Sailor from Compass Marine and Marine How-to has a compelling video. > > > > https://youtu.be/onmkD4PnRlk > > > > So, I had every intention of replacing the old solid coupling. Lots of > people suggested a split coupling for easier installation and removal in > the future (and likely future reuse). The typical buck algonquin split > coupling was first on the list but seemed to have limited build quality. > My machinist agreed and spoke of split couplings with disdain... Until he > saw the one I have. I had found it years ago but never had a reason to > buy. At only a marginal increase in price it was relatively easy to > justify over the buck algonquin. It also appears to be made of stainless > however no marketing about its material properties are available. > > > > As for replacing the log? I don't exactly know how one would replace. I > suppose that you would sand/grind out the existing bore and then rebed a > new FRP tube in its place with thickened epoxy. Fill and fare the outside > where it exits the hull. My log has "shmutz" on the inside interface where > it enters the hull. I don't know what normal looks like but this appears > to be DIY not OEM. > > > > Rob was my first contact. He more or less stated that he designs the > hulls not the finer details. > > > > The cutlass bearing is the real limit with regards to alignment. Having > the shaft NOT twisting in the strut is the most important aspect. If the > firberglass tube which makes the shaft log is not perfectly aligned with > the straight line from the engine to the strut then the seal will need to > articulate/be adjusted to align so the seal face it perpendicular to the > shaft. In a perfect world everything works but we've all discusses the > asymmetrical aspects of our boats before. > > > > I like the design, engineering, and service of PYI products. Everything I > have bought or needed from them has been top notch. The boat came with > their Max-Prop and PSS shaft seal. I added the coupling dampener a few > years back when I replaced the engine mounts with the PYI (R&D Marine) > mounts. I have known that periodic replacement of certain parts of the PSS > are required. Per PYI it should happen every 5 to 7 years. I've had the > boat for 8 and have no idea when the PO installed the seal. I'm already on > borrowed time. I think the primary concern is that the rubber bellows > which applies pressure to the seal face will get weak and relax over time. > This can be mitigated by periodically relocating the stainless collar to > add compression. This past October a boat neighbor who had PSS shaft seal > started their engine and put it in gear only to promptly hear a thump, > thump, thump. He quickly shutdown the engine and ultimately found that the > stainless ring had seized to the carbon ring, upon putting it in gear the > rubber bellows tore circumferentially! He was able to realign the rubber > pieces and mitigate the majority of the water now entering the boat. This > was all the motivation I needed to take action. > > > > The Last Drop II seal doesn't risk a bellow rupture, tear, or relaxation. > The hose is superior silicone and the pressure is provided by a stainless > spring. Unlike the PSS seal, the stainless ring portion (which is taking > up some added shaft space) does not need grub screws to damage the shaft. > No drilling dimples, nothing. The spring is far less likely to relax than > the rubber bellows of the PSS. The price for a rebuild kit for PSS had > already made me consider a complete replacement. The marginal increase in > price for the Last Drop II made it an easy choice. > > > > Despite already being long winded I could go into further details and > advantages of any one of the products I have mentioned. > > > > I think talking it out and hearing other's thoughts has solidified my > decision to cut the log. Thanks. > > > > > > All the best, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Jun 17, 2020, 10:12 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > If a picture is worth a thousand words, what is a video worth? > > First off, before I forget, where on earth did you get that handsome SS > Transmission flange? That is sweet! > > > > And you mention the PO may have replaced the log with longer, how do you > replace that? Isn’t that a basic part of the structure? As far as the > length, I do think it is too long. I think you could lose a couple inches > off that with no problem. But as long as we have professional mentoring on > the list, I would be curious to hear what Rob thinks, but I would think a > few inches should be more than enough. It the thing is too long, you end up > having a lot of leverage on it, and if the shaft were wobbly, which could > stress it. Plus it gives the hose more flexibility. > > > > You mention that you fine-tuned the alignment, but that the shaft is not > perfectly aligned in the log – When I replaced my engine in 2007, I aligned > the shaft it so it exited the log perfectly from the outside, and was > centered in the log. Then I adjusted the engine to fit, so the flange and > the tranny flange were within a couple thousands with a feeler gauge. > > > > I see what you mean with the bolts, I also installed one of those, but > forgot the bolts go both ways. A couple inches off the log should give you > the clearance you need, no? > > > > Curious to see how you like it after the PYI. In maybe 18 years, I had > zero problems with my PYI, and I never burped it, but maybe once or twice. > But in my latest boat I am now thinking of replacing the existing PYI. On > launching last week, I burped it, and went about taking it over to the > dock, and noticed my perfectly dry bilge filling up with water. Long story > short, after 45 minutes of sucking water out, and looking for the leak > around all the through hulls and hoses, I finally found it leaking pretty > good around the carbon and SS seal on the shaft – Must have gotten some > crap in between the mating surfaces during burping. It took a bunch more > burping and wiggling around to get it to > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
