The aluminum frames on the old-style windows screw onto the outside of the cabin. Very low-tech. All the information about VHB tape and sealant, etc., apply to the later window style, which I refer to as “go fast” windows.
From: Floersch.net via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2025 9:33 AM To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>; Floersch.net <n...@floersch.net> Subject: Stus-List Re: General question about caulk, gaskets, and water sealing Thank you - you mean the aluminum was on the exterior or interior? I’ll take a closer look next day I’m out. Nick On Jul 17, 2025, at 8:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Nick in Vermont For a 1978 C&C the windows were normally installed using gaskets and aluminum frames. Approx 1980 C&C went away from the gaskets. Looked prettier but leaks were difficult to overcome (our family had 81 C&C 36). If you have aluminum frames follow the advice given re gaskets, etc … If you have the later frameless windows follow the advice given by Rob Abbott and others for those. There are two different beats Mike Hoyt Persistence Halifax From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2025 8:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca <mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca> > Subject: Stus-List Re: General question about caulk, gaskets, and water sealing Nick< My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in place without a frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 15 years ago and the windows still look Nick< My boat has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in place without a frame, screws, bolts etc. I completed the job 15 years ago and the windows still look like new with no issues. First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed the edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and carefully with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus. I cleaned the Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a template to cut the 4 new windows. Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of the gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave it as the adhesive will take care of it. At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and the Sika Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the Sika Primer and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2 tubes (not all of it but I needed some of the second tube). The Sika 295 UV will not bond properly without the Sika Primer. The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in the cabin sides and draw around the inside so the paper can be cut away where they fit into the cabin side. With sand paper, rough up the new window where they will be mounted. I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is very dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy. I applied the Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as I wanted it to ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on the edge of each window itself. I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each window to brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces of wood against the window and braced them against the toerail placing a 10 pound rock on each piece of wood to ensure it stayed in place.....left the braces on for 48 hours to allow sufficient curing time with the moderate Spring temperature. I did one window at a time, removing the tape inside and outside, before the adhesive started to cure. If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address the curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape, regardless of cost. While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective, it is more labor intensive with the application and it is messy if you are not prepared. Several years back I had to replace my car windshield and they used a Sika adhesive.....the people that did it said the Sika adhesive they used was similar to the one I used except the curing time was a fraction of the 295 UV for obvious reasons.....they don't want your vehicle in the shop for 24 to 48 hours while it cures. Maybe the VHB tape and bracing will address your curvature. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 -84 Halifax, N.S. On 2025-07-16 2:50 p.m., Floersch.net <http://floersch.net/> via CnC-List wrote: > I’m a fairly new sailboat owner. > > My CNC34 (’78) needs the water sealing around the cabin windows re-done. It > is not awful but there are certainly signs of age and deterioration and > despite careful use, the spring power-washing cleaning showed that water > could get through some of the edges of the windows. > > What is the best practice for re-sealing windows? > > Is there a particular caulk I use? Or do I use gaskets of some kind? > > I could take out the old windows and look at what was there, but I am not > convinced the previous owners did it the right way either. So I’d like to > know what is considered the current best approach? > > Thanks! > > Nick in Vermont > Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to > keep it active. 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