Now I'm mostly just grumpy because I got all excited about Edge-notched
Cards and spent a good 30-45 minutes frustratingly discovering there's
nowhere to get these for a reasonable cost/scale anymore...

Tossing onto the rest of the conversation, I have 9 categories in my box
but am broadly only half-satisfied with the results:
- Easy, sometimes boring
- Simple, but fun
- Full heys
- Petronellas
- Wave-balancey
- Intermediate
- Advanced 1
- Advanced 2
- "Garbage" (Contra Mixers, general random nonsense that I rarely call
outside of workshops, etc)

Previously I had a system where I'd add a colored stripe for different
distinguishing moves in a dance - blue for a hey, orange for petronellas,
green for chain->star, yellow for long lines, etc - but that rapidly failed
to scale as I collected more dances than I had time to stripe. Like Angela,
I did however enjoy the splash of color while it lasted.

*Goes back to scouring the web for viable edge-notched card replacements in
a sub-2.5in form factor*
Isaac Banner
Code Monkey, Contra Orangutan

On Wed, Jan 11, 2023 at 1:51 PM Angela DeCarlis via Contra Callers <
[email protected]> wrote:

> Seth, I do my best to categorize difficulty by the dance and not the
> context. I think my Section III might include minor ventures outside the
> minor set, for example, but not big movements away. At a place like
> Pinewoods I might never touch a dance from Sections I or II.
>
> On Wed, Jan 11, 2023 at 2:34 PM Tepfer, Seth <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Angela
>>
>> I love the idea of the colored stickers on the top. That sounds so
>> colorful and enticing.
>>
>> When I started calling and building a collection of dances, I did a
>> similar sorting by difficulty - Easy, Medium, Complex. And mostly, it
>> works. However, My definition of difficulty changes in several different
>> ways.
>>
>>    - As I learn how to teach a dance - there are dances that previously
>>    I thought were challenging. But once I learned how to teach them
>>    effectively, it turns out there were not that challenging. It was me that
>>    was making them challenging
>>    - Context makes a huge difference as to what is an easy or
>>    challenging dance.
>>       - A dance that might be considered easy for a regular dance might
>>       suddenly become very challenging. We have had a huge influx of first 
>> time
>>       dancers in January - we call them the "New Years Resolution crowds".  
>> "Air
>>       pants" by Lisa G has no chain or courtesy turn, but would be far too
>>       difficult for the first dance of the night with all these first 
>> timers. I'm
>>       pulling back to "Family Contra" or similar.
>>       - On the other hand, if I'm calling in a school or for a wedding,
>>       I MIGHT call family contra late in the session - but it would be one I
>>       would build up to. In that context, "Family Contra" is advanced.
>>       - Finally, at a dance weekend, a dance that in other contexts
>>       might be considered intermediate difficulty becomes "no walk thru" 
>> easy.
>>
>>
>>
>> Seth Tepfer, MBA, CSM, PMP (he, him, his)
>> Senior IT Manager, Emory Primate Center
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Angela DeCarlis via Contra Callers <
>> [email protected]>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2023 1:48 PM
>> *To:* Michael Dyck <[email protected]>
>> *Cc:* [email protected] <
>> [email protected]>
>> *Subject:* [External] [Callers] Re: mechanical sorting systems
>>
>> I love that Joe remembered the edge-notched sorting system I told him
>> about and also really love Jeff's suggestion of getting spiral-bound cards
>> and removing the spiral! I've drilled holes in index cards before as Joe
>> described, but the results weren't clean.
>>
>> *I don't remember who I first heard about this sorting system from, but I
>> recall that they said some well-known caller/choreographer organized his
>> cards this way. Anyone know who this was?* I've always wanted to
>> rediscover this knowledge!
>>
>> For my cards, I've only in the last year developed a system I'm happy
>> with after a decade of prototyping:
>>
>>    - First, my box is divided into five sections (I, II, III, IV, and V)
>>    according to *difficulty*. Dances in the I section are easiest and
>>    won't even include a courtesy turn. Sections II and III are my most-used; 
>> a
>>    typical regular dance evening will pull from these sections. IV is for
>>    tricky dances — you could get away with one or two at a regular dance with
>>    a competent crowd, or you could save them for Advanced Dance events. V is
>>    really wacky hard stuff. Advanced as it gets.
>>    - Second, each card has a colored sticker (something like these
>>    
>> <https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.webstaurantstore.com%2Favery-5796-1-4-round-assorted-removable-see-through-color-coding-dot-labels-pack%2F15405796.html%3Futm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dfreeclicks%26utm_campaign%3DGoogleShopping&data=05%7C01%7Clabst%40emory.edu%7C320567296483459d017e08daf4047b2e%7Ce004fb9cb0a4424fbcd0322606d5df38%7C0%7C0%7C638090597349435039%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=X92GqD513UOOFl%2FEw8Jmrs3hVyz317TO8qQ9kgCukzc%3D&reserved=0>)
>>    to give a sense of the dance's *disposition*. Pink is very balance-y,
>>    orange is moderately balance-y, yellow is moderately smooth, green is very
>>    smooth. The important distinction here is that I'm not wed to how a
>>    particular bit of choreography should be danced (i.e., a band could
>>    successfully play a smooth tune to an orange-coded dance) but my coding
>>    does give a sense of where to look for certain moves: if I want
>>    petronellas, I look in the pink dances first.
>>       - *The stickers are placed along the top edge of the cards and
>>       positioned according to difficulty, with dances in Section I having
>>       stickers on the left of that edge and dances in Section V toward the 
>> right.
>>       This makes sorting and identifying dances very easy.*
>>       - Finally, within each colored section I alphabetize. Occasionally
>>    I know the name of a dance I'm looking for (though not always!) and in
>>    those cases I usually remember enough about the dance to guess where in my
>>    box it will be.
>>
>> I've been really happy with this sorting system. Programming is easier.
>> It means that if I need to change plans, I can select dances very quickly.
>> It also means I can replace dances and re-sort my box at the end of the
>> evening without trouble. I used removable stickers so that I could change
>> my mind if needed, and this is the only thing I'd do differently so far;
>> these stickers fall off too easily, even when folded over the top edge.
>>
>> Bonus: My box looks like rainbow stripes from the top.
>>
>> And another mechanic:
>>
>>    - I always add a tally to the back of a card after I call it...
>>       - Regular at the top left, medley inclusion at the bottom
>>       - This allows me to turn my box around and select for favorites
>>       ("I need an old stand-by") or newly-collected ("I'm bored")
>>    - ...and I also add dance titles to a google spreadsheet before I
>>    re-sort the cards back into their categories
>>       - What did I call last time I was at this dance? What worked and
>>       what didn't?
>>       - I can also pull an old program from a comparable event if I
>>       don't have time to program from scratch
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 11, 2023 at 11:26 AM Michael Dyck via Contra Callers <
>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> On 2023-01-11 12:44 a.m., Joe Harrington via Contra Callers wrote:
>> >
>> > I heard recently (I believe from Angela DeCarlis) of a mechanical
>> sorting
>> > system based on the Jacquard loom concept that became the Hollerith
>> punched
>> > card system.  I've never seen it in use.  Does anyone do this?
>>
>> See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edge-notched_card
>> <https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FEdge-notched_card&data=05%7C01%7Clabst%40emory.edu%7C320567296483459d017e08daf4047b2e%7Ce004fb9cb0a4424fbcd0322606d5df38%7C0%7C0%7C638090597349435039%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=flN8KaAZJR3pf74clihLeTnkL4d8RO27SXe0BMODAAg%3D&reserved=0>
>>
>> [Ah, Jeff Kaufman beat me to it.]
>>
>> > Figure out the ten or so characteristics you might want to sort on.
>> For
>> > example, easy, medium, hard, bouncy, flowy, separates partners,
>> sweetheart
>> > (keeps partners together), etc.  Take a stack of cards and drill holes
>> near
>> > the bottom edge, one per characteristic (you can drill a stack of cards
>> if
>> > you sandwich them between wood and clamp them).  Now, on a given card,
>> punch
>> > out the rest of the paper between the hole and the edge of the card for
>> each
>> > hole the card DOESN'T match.
>>
>> Alternatively, you could punch out the margin when it *does* match (which
>> would probably be less work). Then in the selection procedure, the cards
>> that fall out (as opposed to the ones that stay on the needle) are the
>> selected ones.
>>
>> > [...]
>> >
>> > Good hole alignment and clean punching would matter, I think.  If you
>> are a
>> > real dance sorting fanatic, you could get like 30 holes around the card
>> > edges, but that would limit the writing space.
>>
>> Back when I was young and had lots of time (and no computer), I made a
>> deck
>> of edge-notched cards to 'play' the game Mastermind:
>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastermind_(board_game)
>> <https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FMastermind_(board_game)&data=05%7C01%7Clabst%40emory.edu%7C320567296483459d017e08daf4047b2e%7Ce004fb9cb0a4424fbcd0322606d5df38%7C0%7C0%7C638090597349435039%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Fs%2BuqPhPZtbpVy5IoYMzEOQairVzH9ugrbuyp0DKFnA%3D&reserved=0>
>>
>> (4 pegs of 6 possible colors, so 1296 cards, each with 24 holes and 4
>> notches.) As I recall, during the selection procedure, cards with a notch
>> at
>> the selected hole (which *should* fall out) would sometimes 'stay on' the
>> needle just from friction with the neighboring cards. So I'd have to
>> jostle
>> the deck a bit to shake those loose.
>>
>> Also, V-shaped notches increased the chances that a card would fall out
>> when
>> it should.
>>
>> One way to avoid these problems is to have two opposite sets of holes,
>> with
>> complementary notches. In the selection procedure, you use two needles,
>> placed in complementary holes, and you pull them apart to separate the
>> cards
>> you want from the ones you don't.
>>
>> -Michael
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