years ago I ordered
C1 DIN A4 sized reflective camera target on non-glossy
Kodak Prof. paper and polystyrol backing. IT 8.7 layout.
for doing profiles when shooting film and scanning afterwards with
Vuescan (profiling different color negative films).
Worked fine.
--
regards
Bernhard
http://www.bilddateien.de
Tim Rolph schrieb am 23.10.2017 um 17:38:
Hi Thomas, I used Wolf Faust R1 just because I already had it to calibrate my
scanner but if I were too get another one for my camera I would get the C1;
its 3 times the cost of the R1 at 30 euro but its bigger (A4) and non-glossy
so it's easier to get a good shot.
I have had disappointing results with custom ICC profiles maybe in part because
of the scanner target, but the darktable-chart styles that I created with it
in different lighting situations have all had near identical positive results.
Over all I agree with Jo about darktable-chart.
Tim.
On Monday, 23 October 2017 09:10:26 BST Thomas Werzmirzowsky wrote:
Gesendet: Montag, 23. Oktober 2017 um 07:47 Uhr
Von: "Robert William Hutton" <[email protected]>
An: [email protected]
Betreff: Re: [darktable-user] Exported JPG vs. Camera JPG
On 22/10/17 20:27, Thomas Werzmirzowsky wrote:
I shot a portrait with my Canon EOS 60D and noticed that the JPG from
the Canon in portrait image mode looks significantly better than the one
exported from Darktable. Especially the blue color looks much more
natural in the camera JPG.
I have a 60D and a 5d mark iii. I can vouch for the fact that the
"enhanced colour matrix" that is the default does a poor job with the 60D
raws (generally much better with the 5d3 raws), mostly with the blues.
Yes that's what I noticed too. If I switch to "standard colour matrix" the
results are much better.
I found creating my own matrix from a Wolf Faust target worked really
well,
Tim Rolph also mentioned the Wolf Faust target but I have to admit that
looking at the website I don't know what to order. What "Order #" would be
the right one?
but ultimately decided that having the additional dependency of having
that profile present if I wanted to re-edit the images at a later date
wasn't worth it, and I do much as you do: use the standard profile.
Sometimes also setting the gamut clipping to linear rec2020 is a good
option as well.
I don't really get that. Don't you have to create the profile just once and
then it's done? As the color mapping should contain all colours it
shouldn't change from photo shot to phot phot, should it? Or would it be
needed to create a new matrix for every photo shot just like doing a gray
card shot for the white balance?
I can probably dig up the 60D profile if you'd like to try it.
It would be great if you could lookup the profile. I'd like to give it a
try.
Regards,
Rob
Thanks a lot. Also @Tim Rolph.
Best regards
Thomas
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