To make matters more interesting here are dimension differences of picture 1

JPEG EXIF - 2448x3264
RAF in Darktable - 2464x3262
RAF in RAWTherapee - 2456x3254
RAF in UFRaw - 2464x3262

I apologize for hijacking the original thread and really should have looked 
closer. When I originally took the pictures in late August there was severe 
distortion and close to 1000px difference in the dimensions. I will have to 
make a lens profile for distortion correction.

Sorry again.

My prefered RAW editor as always is Darktable. 

--Ian

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

-----Original Message-----
From: "Ian Christie" <[email protected]>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2013 02:45:13 
To: <[email protected]>; Darktable user 
list<[email protected]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Darktable-users] Fuji X-Trans RAW files

Take a look at the first picture it is clearly shorter lacking the same number 
of rows. I'll send you the raw and the jpeg from camera if you want. The HS30 
raw files aren't read properly, 1000 pixel difference both directions isn't a 
case of the RAW vs JPEG. Also there isn't any distortion correction info for 
the camera and lens.

In the RAW converter that Fuji supplies there is only a 10 or 20 pixel 
difference in dimensions between the RAW and JPEG.

However, I don't let that stop me from using Darktable. Right now I use the RAW 
converter supplied by Fuji in XP in Virtualbox and convert the RAFs to TIF and 
do my editing in Darktable. 

--Ian
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

-----Original Message-----
From: Anton at the-wire <[email protected]>
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2013 21:44:01 
To: <[email protected]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Darktable-users] Fuji X-Trans RAW files

Ian Christie said the following on 10/06/2013 07:53 PM:
> Go to
>
> http://ianchristie.info/compare/index.html
>
> That shows what I mean by distortion, there is a drop in resolution in the 
> Raw in Darktable.

The distortion is what I'd expect in a RAW.
The camera's processing 'knows' the camera and and lens and does the 
correction.  The RAW is quite literally what the sensor array gets, and 
all the mucking around that the lens does; aberration, flaring, 
pincushion/barrel, vignetting.

The in camera vendor s/w 'knows' the characteristics of the camera.

When using darktable you are SUPPOSED to use the lens distortion etc 
appropriate for  the correction for you camera.

Same with UfRaw and others.
See http://lensfun.berlios.de

As for 'resolution', no I don't see that.
Your RAW has not been ev or colour corrected.

I have backlit photos that show no detail unless I adjust them, and the 
camera's jpeg was a blackout as well.


Here's an example, two screenshots of darktable.
Original and corrected.

This is done just by adjusting the ev and curves.
Really I should use some kind of making and dodging, but darktable 
doesn't permit that yet.

The embedded jpeg has the hifi cabinet so dark you can't see anything, 
but its just visible in the original RAW.

Never mind the image, look at the right hand panel, the exposure graph 
and colour correction curve.  I'm doing this by 'eye' rather than a 
formula.  Well OK, I always tweak EV first :-)

The loss of resolution in your RAW, the RH image, is that it washed out, 
you need to back off the EV.


Now I don't know if these matters are symptomatic or what.
I found that with my Lumix GF1 'daylight' turned up a bit blue and with 
the F600 it tends to underexpose.  You can set up darktable to 
automatically compensate for these specific biases.   You can set it up 
to automatically deal with the lens distortion as well.


The whole point is that RAW is RAW.  Its a data dump of the cells on the 
sensor.  The processing to make the jpeg makes all these adjustments. 
The vendor and hence the embedded camera software that converts to jpeg 
inside the camera know this stuff - after all, its all there packaged by 
the vendor.

But darktable need to be told all this.

Now if you look, you'll see the curves on the right show the process of 
correction.

I've just hammed these together quickly to make the point.
They aren't meant to be quality, good art or good resolution.
Just hand-held point and shoot under poor conditions to show high contrast.

You're faced with the opposite: you can see I cranked the EV up to 
+4.96EV in Corrected-1.  You need to crank it down.


As for the pincushion distortion, well that is common with some lenses.
So is the opposite.  Try sticking your nose real close to the lens and 
focus on the  tip and see how that distorts the rest of your face. 
That's a classic shot and has nothing to do with digital.

Yes this is what the lens correction package is for.
You may have to apply it outside of darktable.
Try using UFRaw or RawTherapee.

UFRaw lets you set up any kind of aberration compensation you want.
The Room series weren't distorted so I added some. :-)
(see Distorted0265.jpg)

Darktable has chromatic aberration and distortion modules as well.


Very little is automatic.  Its outside the camera so it doesn't know the 
camera unless you tell it.

Yes there are 'presets'.  you can set them up and load then or import 
other people's presets just as you can with styles.
Under the image in darktable's 'darkroom' mode ther are two icons
One is three bars and one looks like a % sign with a trumpet.
The former is presets and the latter are styles.






-- 
Our government has kept us in a perpetual state of fear - kept us in a 
continuous stampede of patriotic fervor - with the cry of grave national 
emergency.
    -- Douglas MacArthur

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