Tom Rymes wrote:
Actually, the 2400 is dead as a doornail (except for the occasional boot
> up, which are few and far between) However, the "POP" was in the 8550, so
> that isn't as much of a concern here. Here's my question: I am going to
> give this a whirl when I get home. I assume that spraying this down with
> the coolant will work for a brief period of time until the board warms back
> up? But then how does the moisture clear away so quickly? Oh well, here's
> hopin'
>
> Regarding the connection BTW the Logic board and the CPU card, it has been
> removed a couple of times, and seems really tightly placed in there. (there
> are 4 screws holding it in place!) It's kinda hard to place pressure on the
> board while poweringiton, but I'll do my best.
>
> Tom
>
> PS: Will the dangerous current in the power supply of my 8550 stay
> thereindefinitely, or does it slowly diminish? How can I discharge it?
>
Getting all your CPUs mixed up. Comes from reading too many threads.
O.K. here goes.
1. The �moisture� is not really water, but the liquid coolant. Thus it dissipates
quickly. Even though its not water, many fluids are conductive.
2. As for getting zapped, you only have to worry about that in the AC circuit. That
means if you can power it with the battery pack, power adapter, or any other device
that only puts out 5v-24v(I use a variable bench power supply) your not going to get a
poke. Electrolytic capacitors will hold a charge for a very long time, but the nasty
ones are only found in the 115v stage of the power supply. If a 24v capacitor is on
rampage it will only give you one poke. A very crude and dangerous way to discharge
caps is with a screwdriver across the + & - terminal. The correct way is to use a 10k
ohm resistor across the terminals. But, hey, its not going to kill you�. much ;-). I
always work on circuits with power on, helps with ESD(electrostatic discharge).
Being new here I must say this list is as user friendly as an Apple.
J.Oak
200 computers and counting(recount! recount!)
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