Jon,
Then we disagree, I'm not brokenhearted, hi hi. But not entirely.
Lights are now (by law in places) LED but that is a trivial load in the
greater picture. Older homes often struggle with appliances, which
(conveniently) are now more efficient, using less load, BUT some are
still substantial (electric oven, HVAC. electric dryer) in old homes.
There are still plenty of old homes with wiring dating from the build
date, trying to keep up with present day loads.
The general point is to be aware of the larger picture; what is being
consumed; which circuit supplies to what item/s and most importantly:
Is ANY circuit being used to the max, unknowingly or not? If you're
still using (because it runs and is paid for) an older appliance; it
uses more energy. Be aware, more so if you're in a 60 year old house
(when lights and perhaps a radio station to listen to was the norm).
This time of year (in the north US at least); folks are starting to use
portable electric heaters to augment the HVAC (I use a wood stove by
preference, warm AND dry heat, the HVAC is the fallback plan). House
fires are increasing at the same rate; often caused by wiring issues
(most often, using a power strip and failing to note the load on the
entire circuit or the strip). (Chimney fires are the second most cause
this time of year.)
The real issue: Folks don't look at what they're doing; they just keep
plugging stuff in blithe ignorance.
Again back to the original point, the power company MAY provide 110V or
120V or anything in between over the course of a day (most are VERY
stable at what they provide); what the operator gets at the station
plugs, tracks that too.
If the provider offers 110V instead of 120V (the present standard); the
tap on the transformer will have to be changed. If the house circuit
struggles to provide the current; keep the tapped voltage within that
window (and update the wiring).
What happened in central coast CA, may not be the same as BFE Texas on
old wiring, in an old home (knob and tube still?).
If the lights dim while transmitting; you're (likely) exceeding the
current capacity of the circuit. (If they get brighter, you have a
house electrical grounding situation; excluding RFI cause; a far more
dangerous alert.)
Bottom line: Use the tap that keeps the amp within the voltage span
required. Watch and be aware of the total house load/s, in particular
whatever shares the amp power circuit. Don't overload ANY of the circuits.
I think we can agree on that point. ;-)
73,
Rick nk7i
On 11/14/2022 9:36 AM, Jon Poland wrote:
I disagree with Rick. It is true that modern houses have more
electric capacity. But as homeowners shift to more efficient
appliances and lighting, electric loads (and bills) are
consistently dropping. The one trend that counters that though is
that modern homes (at least in the US) are consistently larger than
their older counterparts and require more energy to keep comfortable.
That trend does not explain voltage drops though.
My 12 year old house has 200 amp service. I don't know why. But
since building it, we have shifted to 90+% LED lighting, high
efficiency dishwasher, fridge, and clothes washer. My entire lighting
load at any given time is less than 120W. A smart thermostat reduces
AC and furnace loads. The 2 largest electrical loads are the clothes
dryer and gas furnace blower. This house is also better insulated
than any home I have ever owned - also reducing the furnace load (gas
and electricity).
Curiously, the next largest load in many homes are the TV's turned on
in every bedroom... (But their heat reduces the amount of time the
furnace needs to run.)
Of course, if you have an electric car charger the picture changes
drastically... But that is still a small percentage of US homes today.
jon N0WL
On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:10 AM Rick Bates, NK7I
<[email protected]> wrote:
Too high at THEIR location.
Power company feeds, vary (not a lot but their load changes, they
adjust).
House wiring varies and other devices on that circuit can cause other
variations too. Older homes (1950's and older) often have less
capacity
than newer homes (didn't need it then). Today we use a LOT more
energy
than then; some house circuits are no longer 'adequate' (causing
fires
in some cases because folks abuse the wiring in ignorance).
Part of station set up and operations, is knowing what the
circuit(s) of
the house wiring, is connected to besides the station. Fridge,
washer,
HVAC, electric oven shared with the station?
If you need one more tap to get within the right voltage window,
use one
more tap to achieve that. If you change circuits, remeasure. And
if on
the same circuit, maybe don't run the washing machine or oven at the
same time as the amp. ;-)
73,
Rick nk7i
On 11/14/2022 6:38 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:
> Gordon -
>
> I had mine set up, as Rick suggests - but when it was in for
service, they dropped it back a notch saying it was too high.
>
> My readings now agree with yours.
>
> 73
> Lyn, WØLEN
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:[email protected]
<mailto:from%[email protected]>
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Rick NK7I
> Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2022 1:03 PM
> To:[email protected] <mailto:to%[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Voltage?
>
> I'd move it up one tap as long as it does NOT EXCEED 85V at receive.
>
> Higher voltage not only gives you better output but also
cleaner. That
> matters too.
>
> 73,
> Rick nk7i
>
>
> On 11/12/2022 10:25 AM, Gordon LaPoint wrote:
>> My KPA500 is showing 57-58 VDC at 450-500 watts out, and 71-72
VDC on rx.
>>
>> Is this normal or should I move up one tap?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Gordon - N1MGO
>>
>>
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