On Sunday 07 July 2013 14:33:40 Dave did opine:

> On 7/7/2013 1:51 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Sunday 07 July 2013 01:20:43 Jon Elson did opine:
> >> Gene Heskett wrote:
> >>>    Now I can
> >>> 
> >>> write a peck loop wrapping up the G33.1, that can drive a 10-32 tap
> >>> half an inch into a prepared hole, backing out to clear chips, and
> >>> do it in perhaps 45 to 60 seconds.  Each direction change, at 300
> >>> revs, takes a bit less than 3 seconds for the stop, and accelerate
> >>> to the same speed in the other direction.  Listening to the z
> >>> stepper growl seems to say that it is totally and absolutely
> >>> locked.  I have killed the motor power in mid cycle, and rolled the
> >>> spindle by hand, with the z drive following it perfectly, as I
> >>> expected. ;-)
> >> 
> >> I do 4-40 holes with a combined drill-tap in about 12 seconds at 1000
> >> RPM. it takes most of the time doing the drill plunge, then the
> >> tapping only takes a
> >> couple of seconds.  I do 10-32 in pre-drilled holes in about 4
> >> seconds at 660 RPM.  Those are single-pass tapping cycles in
> >> aluminum.
> >> 
> >> Jon
> > 
> > Chuckle, yes, and I can imagine the cost of the tap to do that.  I am
> > using what I can get at Tractor Supply, with gullets that wouldn't
> > pretend to have enough room to carry the chip load from a hole that
> > was likely the nearest fractional 1/64th inch size smaller.  But you
> > would be amazed at what a 3/32" diameter diamond coated bit, laid in
> > the groove, turning slow enough to not ablate the diamond, used to
> > deepen the gullets by .005" can do for the performance of such a tap.
> >  I've also found the usual Ace Hdwe Hansen tap breaks like cast iron
> > today, where 50 years ago it was close to the best you could buy.
> > 
> > So today I look for the MIBRO brand, they are not only sharper, but
> > can take 2 to 3x the torque a Hansen tap breaks at.  Sure, they
> > aren't a $30 tap from Henly, but they do a fine job for a 7 dollar
> > bill including the right size tap drill.  My problem is keeping the
> > tap and the drill together after removal from the blisterpack card. 
> > I should make me some box covers for brass storage plates, with the
> > plate having 2 holes drilled in it with each tap drill, and one of
> > then tapped for the tap so they are always together.  I'll probably
> > do that right after I find my missing round tuit.
> > 
> > :)
> > 
> > The best small drill and tap storage ever was the little plastic&
> > cardboard sleeve they shipped rifle ammo primers in 50 years ago.  I
> > still have one of those with all my 6-48, 8-40&  10-32 taps&  drills
> > (some of those are carbide) stored in it.
> > 
> > Cheers, Gene
> 
> Gene,
> 
> Do you have a Menards near you? 

Not that I am aware of.

> The tap/drill pairs that they sell
> hold up well.  I think they are $5.00 for an 8-32 set.
> I use them to drill and tap holes in steel control panel backplanes and
> they do ok.   I chuck the taps in a cordless drill and go to it with a
> touch of lube

I do that too, but often the workpiece isn't adequately held, so it gets 
dicey.

> I break very few of them.   I've used nice spiral point taps but they
> last about the same.    You are right.. ..Hanson used to be very high
> quality.
> 
> Dave
> 
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Cheers, Gene
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