Hi Robert,

Recently, I bought several similar heaters for my home. I recall reading in
the operation instructions, explicit safety warnings against using extension
cords with the heater. Was the extension cord supplied with the heater?


---------------------------------------------------------------------
Dan Kwok,  P.Eng.
Principal Engineer
Electromagnetic Compatibility
Intetron Consulting,  Inc.
Ph  (604) 432-9874
E-mail [email protected]
Internet  http://www.intetron.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Macy" <[email protected]>
To: "Roman, Dan" <[email protected]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: skinny power cords.


>
> Just have to jump in here with personal experience:
>
> In our bedroom we have a deLonghi radiator heater which uses an extension
> cord (high cost UL approved) heavy guage #12 wire to power it - when it's
> used.  This extension cord plugs into a "multi outlet" adapter, also heavy
> duty UL approved.  At the time of the incident there was no power being
used
> from this outlet.
>
> I was in another room, my wife was sitting on the edge of the bed watching
a
> news blurb on TV when she heard a funny sound, a scritch, scritch.   She
> called to me to come listen.  Scritch, scritch, scritch got louder.  As I
> arrived, flames started lapping up the wall from the outlet while still
> making arcing sounds.  The flames were less than 6 inches from curtains.  I
> reached into all this and unplugged the extension cord which luckily
stopped
> the fireworks display.  Imagine, if we had not been there.
>
> Upon examination, it appeared that an arc had formed between the blades of
> the extension cord (remember no power at the time).  That arc was not
> sufficient to drop the 15A breaker to the outlet, yet was sufficient to
> carbonize the UL approved material which further sustained the arc.
>
> I posted this to the newsgroup alt.home.repair where a fireman jumped in
> describing how this exact mechanism is what starts most home fires!  Isn't
> that an encouraging thought!
>
> Anyway, a little damn fuse in the plug would not have helped in this
> circumstance, complete waste of time, much like the main breaker was.
>
>                                          - Robert -
>
>        Robert A. Macy, PE    [email protected]
>        408 286 3985              fx 408 297 9121
>        AJM International Electronics Consultants
>        619 North First St,   San Jose, CA  95112
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roman, Dan <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
> Date: Thursday, October 25, 2001 7:41 AM
> Subject: RE: skinny power cords.
>
>
> >
> >I agreed completely with Scott.  A 6 to 9 foot 18AWG cord will handle well
> >in excess of 20A for a short period of time without starting to smoke
> (heck,
> >it'll handle close to in excess of 60A for a very very short time without
> >bursting into flames--not that it was a good experience finding this out).
> >Point is, the cordage will handle a fault either indefinitely or long
> enough
> >for the branch circuit breaker to trip provided you are connected to a 15A
> >or 20A branch circuit.
> >
> >Another data point, you routinely pass more current through the cord when
> >doing the earthing test and that uses more current than the cord is rated.
> >Leave the tester on for awhile and the cord does not really heat up
either.
> >
> >What this list needs is a power cord manufacturer or agency safety
engineer
> >that does power cords to settle this once and for all!
> >
> >Dan
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Scott Lacey [mailto:[email protected]]
> >Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 7:43 PM
> >To: Gary McInturff
> >Cc: [email protected]
> >Subject: RE: skinny power cords.
> >
> >
> >
> >Gary,
> >I believe the answer is that the power cord rating of 6 or 10 amps is the
> >operating current, at which it will have minimum temperature rise. Under
> >fault conditions it will experience a rather dramatic temperature rise
that
> >is still well below the melting temperature of the insulation. The breaker
> >or fuse should clear well before the cord is "cooked" to the point of
> >failure.
> >
> >Scott Lacey
> >
>
>
>
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