On Thursday 10 December 2009, Rainer Schmidt wrote:
>You can start out with the cheapest table you can find because you can
>take the motor and probably the mount to another level later when you
>mill the el cheapo into the ground. Backlash is not a problem as long
>as you have control over your toolpath. I build a 4th out of 2 inch
>thick al using a 1.5 ready made rod form McMasters and timkin
>bearings. I used a belt to drive it. I chose the rod because it had
>the right thread for the chuck I used. The chuck at the front and the
>pulley on the back together with a tiny stamped out shim stock disk
>provide the pressure to keep the assembly in the timkin bearings. Rock
>solid, no backlash, and good to swing an ox over the BBQ pit if need
>be 8))).
>Here's a picture. I bolted the drive right onto the 4th as the amount
>of AL is perfect for a heat sink haha. All self contained now. The
>tail stock has a MT3... just for size info. It's HUGE.
>
>http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,11044.0.html

Sweet!  The alu blocks remind me of my Z drive, but I'm turning the nuts on a 
piece of 1/2 acme bolted solidly into the head's sled casting.  Not rollers 
either, but ball cartridges designed for half a ton of axially aligned 
thrust.  Semi sealed, the grease fittings are aligned with the small hole in 
the outer dust cover.  But I figure I'll fall over before they need grease 
again. :-)

>Fudged turn table, fudged indexer, self build, all will work. Just do
>not expect to get great turn ratios with the machine shop based turn
>tables. My Self build one with the belt and stepper can run at least
>400 rpm. Nice for many very shallow passes. I stabilized burl and am
>'turning' that with the spindle and high 4th rpm's rather quickly. No
>way to do that by hand.
>
>best of luck!
>Rainer
>
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-- 
Cheers, Gene
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