Aram,

The problem with the low duty cycle, low current welders, is that even 
when running .023 wire, they eventually overheat and shutdown.

I have a 60% duty cycle, 160 amp Mig welder and that will run.023 wire 
pretty much continuously if the current is set down to 75 amps or so.

But perhaps for a proof of concept you can get by with a low duty cycle 
welder and just pause the process once in a while to allow the welder to 
cool down.

Dave

On 7/31/2014 3:29 PM, a k wrote:
> hi
> About powerful welding machine that have higher welding current.
> i think that if main goal is to deposit as much as possible metal than it
> is good. like in structural steel manufacturer but in my case people-
> customers will bring caliber-micrometer- indicator - all imaginary
> measuring instruments to see how close deposited part to original
> print-model. i think in this case use of smaller wire will be better -
> 0.022  something like that. yes it will take longer time to deposit but
> accuracy of part is most important part.
> maybe in the future possible to use two welders - like one for rough and
> one for finish work-- heavy welder will fast deposit as much as possible
> and small welder will do only external boundary to make part more accurate
> -- close to the print dimensions etc.
> some ideas
>
> aram
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 8:27 AM, Dave Cole <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My phase converter is wired very close to this diagram.
>>
>> http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/fig1.html
>>
>> I've made two of them using surplus 10hp 3 phase motors.  For a while I
>> could buy surplus 10hp motors that were new for
>> about $200.   That was about 14 years ago.
>>
>> I made one for my Dad that is wired like the one in the picture. As long
>> as you hold down the start button, the additional starting caps are
>> in the circuit.   When you release the button the starting caps fall
>> out.   Those are needed just to get it spinning.
>>
>> Mine is a little more basic..  I throw the disconnect on and hold down a
>> button which switches in the starting caps.  Same idea, different manner
>> to start the converter motor.
>>
>> The caps are adjusted to optimize phase currents in load motors.    I've
>> used this converter to supply power to a 3 phase transformer to increase
>> the voltage to 480 volts - 3 phase to test drives.    After the power is
>> passed through a transformer, the currents and voltages are very well
>> balanced.    I used to use real starting caps but if you holld the
>> button down too long the caps blow with a bang.    So I now use regular
>> power caps for everything.     A timer could be used to switch out the
>> starting caps also..    But it doesn't take much skill to start up the
>> converter via a button.
>>
>> The biggest motor I have run off this converter is a 10hp motor on an
>> air compressor.   That was no problem but I turned down the max pressure
>> from 175 psi to 150psi to minimize motor heating due to the unbalance in
>> the motor currents.    I often run a 5 hp lathe off the converter.
>>
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> On 7/31/2014 3:55 AM, andy pugh wrote:
>>> On 30 July 2014 23:04, Dave Cole <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Phase converters are pretty easy to make if you have a spare 3 phase
>>>> motor.
>>> I made a partially succesful one once that also stepped-up the
>>> voltage. Neutral between star-point and a phase, and then the three
>>> phases from the phase ends. It needed a 1/4 hp single-phase (or a
>>> rope) to spin it up, but once it was spinning it continued to spin.
>>>
>>> It wasn't a particularly well balanced 3-phase.
>>>
>>
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