--- Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> For example: this week, at my son's Christmas show
> at school I went in armed
> with my Elan IIe, 70-200 2.8 L, 550EX and Kodak 800
> film. When the camera
> was on auto, the shutter speed set itself to 60,
> which of course is a "no
> no" when you are using a focal length of approx.
> 150-200. If I went into Tv
> mode to increase the shutter speed, then I did not
> get the solid green dot
> in my viewfinder that confirmed proper exposure,
> etc. I ended up using Av
> mode at 2.8 and this gave me a shutter speed of
> about 90 or so, but combined
> with the long focal length, some of my pictures were
> pretty blurry.
If you go to Av mode (or Tv) and set for example an
aparture of 2.8 the camera will chose a shutter speed
that gives correct exposure for the available light
(background). In your case 1/90s. That is not what you
want. You probably care less about a correct exposed
background but more about a correct exposed sharp
subject.
The right approach to solve this problem is to use M
mode. In that case you can set your shutter speed and
your aperture to whatever you want. The meter still
measures the available light. Therefore, it probably
will show you underexposure depending on the available
light and your settings. Depending on how much
underexposure it shows you can figure out how dark
your background will be. Now for your subject
(foreground) the flash will give additional light to
expose your subject correctly. A correct exposure will
be confirmed on the back of the flash with the green
light. If your subject is within the working distance
of your flash the green light should come on.
Now here are a few things you should remember:
1) If your subject is out of the flash's reach you
have to adjust the aperture or filmspeed. A change in
shutter speed will not change the flash range unless,
I think, you work in the high speed flash mode. Can
somebody confirm my last statement?
2) The high speed flash mode reduces the flash range a
lot because it uses a lot of short flashes to simulate
a continuous light. So you should try to stay bellow
your max. flash sync.
3) If your max. flash sync is slower then the shutter
speed you want to chose you either need high speed
flash, use a monopod/tripod, change your situation
(i.e. get close -> shorter focal length), etc.
4) If the flash is your main light then you can chose
a relatively slow shutter speed because the flash will
freeze your subject. Unless, of course, you work with
high speed flash. Then you have to care about shutter
speed again.
Robert
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