In article <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Robert
Meier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
>4) If the flash is your main light then you can chose
>a relatively slow shutter speed because the flash will
>freeze your subject. Unless, of course, you work with
>high speed flash. Then you have to care about shutter
>speed again.
An alternative is to use fast film (eg 800) and wide apertures (f2.8) -
the distance to the stage should mean that low depth of field isn't a
problem. The yellowish tint can be adjusted for in printing or scanning
- but with stage lighting you might get all sorts of tints! I have one
that looks like a blue ghost.
I have used a 200mm f2.8 and Fuji Superia 800 successfully in these
circumstances. (I scan the negatives.) I have also seen Superia 800
pushed one stop, and that gave surprisingly good results.
Bill Welch
--
*
****
*******
***********************************************************
* For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see:
* http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm
***********************************************************
