>1/200 is to make sure that the action is frozen. I don't get much ambient
light in, but I don't have any weird blur.
I think the key here is that the area that is evaluating how much
flash is required may be on a "black" area. Therefore, it may be trying to
light up the back wall and the subject, closer to you, gets too much light.
Some people have better luck using the thyristor on the flash rather than
the TTL or ETTL as the thyristor usually measures the flash over a larger
area, usually including your subject. You can do this with the camera on
manual and the flash set to use the thyristor (if you use a flash like the
Vivitar 283, 285 or called Auto on the Metz - the Canon flashes do not have
this mode.
Of course, the way to really get it accurate is to go back to the
guide number approach and set the flash on manual, as we used years ago.
Cal Rice
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