At 01:23 AM 3/25/2007, you wrote: >All, >... >The reason this is a major concern to me is due to my past experience. Dust >on slides/film is just a killer. I also have a good scanner which I chose >over a scanner with ICE because the former had a bit a better real-world >dynamic range. It was almost as big a mistake as purchasing a Tamron >200-400. I spent countless hours getting rid of dust. That's despite the >fact that I stored my film/slides carefully and did give them a good blast >of air before scanning.
Dust in scanning film is definitely more of a problem, but that is because the dust is on the film plane and becomes in-focus. Dust on the sensor is not directly in the plane of focus and this is the saving grace of digital cameras over scanning film. I certainly don't miss the scanning process. My particular scanner always seem to skew the images by about 1 degree. Now there is so much dust in the scanner, especially the mirror, that all the images come out with tremendous flare around anything bright. Basically I'm lazy now. I never worry about dust getting on my flash cards. For film, an ionizer plus blower may work well. See the last image here: http://www.fovegraphy.com/IonizerE.php >I wish the 30D would have at least 10MP as that would give me a native >200dpi for a 13"x19" print. But 8MP really isn't that far off. 1D mark III I believe is 10mp :-) >The article mentioned by Wayne S was very interesting an informative. >Thanks. One thing the article did not mention is exactly what kind of dust. I have heard from a friend that sometimes near construction sites or certain industry, there is a fine particulate dust that is much finer that typical dust. Very nasty once it gets in the camera, as it sticks to everything. Even if you clean the sensor, there is more dust just waiting to repopulate the sensor. This is where one needs the ionizer combined with a blower or vacuum system to clean the whole mirror box. Ordinary dust, as shown in the article, is easy to deal with using a blower. I also suggest manually lifting the mirror and blowing on the closed shutter first, before using clean mode, with the shutter open. It is the really fine dust that none of the sensor cleaning systems can do anything about (except those that seal or keep dust further away). Even blowing cannot affect this dust, because the electrostatic charge turns the stuff into glue. Some fine dust can occur from the shutter mechanism itself, which was mention in the white paper for the 1D mark III. Some types of man-made particulate holds static charge much more than typical dust. Even some camera bags are worse than others depending on the materials used. I threw out my old pelican case foam inserts. This fine dust typically becomes visible at F16+. The FF sensors are going to be harder to deal with dust because there is much less room to keep the dust away from the sensor. If you are careful with the camera, Dust is a manageable affair. Especially compared to typical film scanning. Wayne S * **** ******* *********************************************************** * For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see: * http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm ***********************************************************
