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We're reaching the limit of my minimal knowledge on
this subject. Fortunately, it's a pretty easy subject.
Comments interspersed . . .
Kim wrote:
> 1. I assume the lexan referred to by
Hartmut is the same
> a polycabonate referred to by Ed. Is this
correct?
Yes.
> 2. Ed said "I used a shoe string to hold the
windows 3-4 inches
> apart to keep them from sliding down rather than
using the window
> tighteners which sometimes crack the
Plexiglas." I'm not sure I'm
> following this. Hold what windows apart? Where
is the window
> tightener?
Some things vary in location from time to time through
the production run. On my plane, there were these thumb screws on the rim of
the front window, down near the bottom of the window. When tightened, they
pushed on a piece of metal and pushed the metal against the window welt which
then pushed on the window. So, tightening the thumb screw pinches the window
and keeps it from sliding down.
If the order of the parts is still correct (after 60
years) then it may work well. Don't over tighten, especially on Plexiglas,
because you might crack the window.
I used Plexiglas and besides my window clampy thingies
didn't work very well. So, I took a part of an old shoe string and sometimes
tied it between the left and right hand window end hardware. Then, I'd push
the windows apart the desired amount and tie a bow just like on my shoes.
I also had a cabin air vent with the intake on the
nose bowl about 45° down to the left of the prop hub when looking from in front
of the plane. This is a place where the prop passes pretty close to the nose
bowl. Whether it was just the push of air from the front of the plane or the
prop pumping it in, I got very good airflow. With the window open about 3-5
inches, I got terrific airflow and it took a mighty hot day to overheat in
cruise.
On the ground, I'd leave the windows open till just
seconds before the takeoff roll then latch them closed, do the takeoff on the
hot day then open them when I was high enough to have good engine-out landing
options. But, when cruising on a trip, I found the minor buffeting from the
wind was wearisome after a while. Putting the windows almost together with my
shoe string to hold them removed the buffeting yet allowed plenty of air flow
for comfort.
> 3. Hartmut, does the 19-3/4" x 31-1/4"
allow the windows to
> touch, so my 6" (or so) center piece (sun
shade?) can be eliminated?
As a cross check, take your metal tape measure and
measure from top center along the window track to just below the window sill.
That's how long it needs to be.
> 4. I was anticipating the following process:
> a. Remove interior covers that prevent leaning
into windows.
I *think* (but do no know) that these interior covers
are one of the major scratchers that damage the window. Make SURE these do NOT
come in contact with the window. Maybe they need stiffeners. Maybe they need
replacement. Also check anything on the outside of the window's travel.
Skip the ones I don't know anything about. It looks
like you have them right.
> g. Install new windows, constantly checking for
clearance in the
> side fuselage structure.
Here's a thought. The window material is pretty cheap
when you buy it from the local plastics store. You might get a few extra
sheets. After you've fixed all the structure so it won't scratch your new
window, you might slide one sheet into the window track and down to the bottom
then up and down repeatedly to see if you're getting scratches. Doing this
with just a cut piece of plastic is a lot less fuss then doing your first test
with the window you've put so much effort into by drilling and attaching
hardware
Question for the lurkers: is it desirable or
necessary to round the edges of the window and the corners before sliding into
the aircraft? (I seem to recall some rounding of the corners of the windows my
mechanic made for me.)
> 5. How much did the windows and welt cost? Is
Univar the
> source for the welting? I would assume any
plastics shop can
> supply, cut and drill the Lexan.
I don’t remember costs. Inflation has changed
them all anyway. I’d urge you to use Skyport http://skyportservices.net/ as the first
option for everything you need for your Coupe. John gives excellent service
and a lot of unpaid support to the Coupe community.
Yes, I’d get the plastics at the local shop. I
don’t know what cutting and drilling and such they’d do or what
they’d charge for those services. Remember for drilling, you have to use
the metal end-pieces for hole templates and the left and right side have to
match for the latch to work.
http://edburkhead.com
ed -at- edburkhead???.com (change
-at- to @ and remove "???")
Thanks!
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