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Lynn, Thank you for your input. I will pass all the information on to the young 
fellow that owns the airplane. Folks, I am only a go between on this problem 
because I was asked to post his problem for him. He is a very  frustrated 
airplane owner. I am trying to guide him to the proper  information to go by. 
Richard L.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Cc: [email protected] 
  Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 1:30 PM
  Subject: Re: [COUPERS-TECH] engine help


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Hey Richard : After writing up some of the stuff below, I think you should take 
your Ercoupe to someone that has experience  (Paul Anton) and have him check 
out the engine/cowling installation and make repairs/modifications as 
necessary. You have been given excellent advice by others. Check those items 
first prior to trying to move the cowling.
    As others have said, get rid of that spacer. The entire cowling can be 
moved rearwards. Take the top cowling (and sides) off. Then take a close look 
at how the front ring and cowl are mounted/fastened. If there are any spacers 
where the front ring mounts to the engine mount plan on removing them. If there 
are no spacers, Plan on remounting the nose bowl. Before moving anything, take 
a good measurement of how far back the  nose bowl needs to go. I am assuming 
that you have already looked at the spinner, and it has been trimmed (it sounds 
like you have a taper shaft engine which has about 1/4 inch shorter prop flange 
to case distance than the -F engine). If the spinner has not been trimmed to 
increase the nose bowl to spinner distance, consider doing that first (If you 
have the taper shaft). I guess I should have asked whether or not you have the 
Super Bowl, because I have seen problems with those in the past. OBTW you need 
to check and make certain that the nose ring is mounted under/behind the 
carburetor air inlet, If it is not, I would say that is a major problem that 
needs to be corrected.
       Now remove the spinner, prop, and nose bowl. Measure the distance from 
the ring that the nose bowl mounts to, to the firewall top and bottom. Remove 
any spacers between the nose ring and the engine mounts. If there were no 
spacers, it will be much easier to move the bottom of the ring aft than the 
top, but harder to fit the side/top cowling.How far you need to move the 
cowling will determine how you conduct the move. If it is only an 1/8 inch or 
so, you should be able to force the nose bowl back (after taking out the 5 
screws that hold it to the nose ring) re-drill the holes and re-fasten the nose 
bowl. If you have to shorten the mounting distance of the nose ring to the 
engine, a small amount can be taken up by compressing the mounting section. If 
you need a 1/4 inch or more, I would look carefully at the installation before 
cutting and re-welding the mounting ring. Are the proper length engine mount 
bolts installed? (the rubber mounts should be compressed so about 1/8 inch of 
rubber is exposed) Are the .050 washers installed between the engine mount bolt 
nut and the rubber?
      The entire cowling can be moved aft (after the nose ring is moved) by 
loosening the engine mount bolts and moving the cowling supports aft the amount 
you need to gain. When you put everything back together, you most likely will 
have to leave the rubber ring that goes around the fuselage tank filler out of 
the top cowling. Put the cowling in place and determine how much material you 
will have to remove from the cowling to get the rubber ring in place. You may 
end up putting a patch over the old hole and making a completely new hole. Once 
that is done, you should be able to mount the cowling back in place and have 
the desired clearance on the spinner.
      I realize this did not cover everything, but it should give you a pretty 
good idea of what needs to be looked at and possibly changed. I still think the 
best bet is to take it to Paul and have him fix the problem.
  Lynn Nelsen
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