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In addition to all the good advice given by others, I would consider removing the spacer and trying a skullcap. I know the controversy about skullcaps versus spinners has been widely discussed here, and we don't need to go all over it again. Maybe he can try the skullcap only as a troubleshooting step. However, the spacer needs to go. Eliacim > ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any > advice in this forum.]---- > > > Lynn, Thank you for your input. I will pass all the information on to the > young fellow that owns the airplane. Folks, I am only a go between on this > problem because I was asked to post his problem for him. He is a very > frustrated airplane owner. I am trying to guide him to the proper > information to go by. Richard L. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Cc: [email protected] > Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 1:30 PM > Subject: Re: [COUPERS-TECH] engine help > > > ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any > advice in this forum.]---- > > > Hey Richard : After writing up some of the stuff below, I think you should > take your Ercoupe to someone that has experience (Paul Anton) and have > him check out the engine/cowling installation and make > repairs/modifications as necessary. You have been given excellent advice > by others. Check those items first prior to trying to move the cowling. > As others have said, get rid of that spacer. The entire cowling can be > moved rearwards. Take the top cowling (and sides) off. Then take a > close look at how the front ring and cowl are mounted/fastened. If > there are any spacers where the front ring mounts to the engine mount > plan on removing them. If there are no spacers, Plan on remounting the > nose bowl. Before moving anything, take a good measurement of how far > back the nose bowl needs to go. I am assuming that you have already > looked at the spinner, and it has been trimmed (it sounds like you > have a taper shaft engine which has about 1/4 inch shorter prop flange > to case distance than the -F engine). If the spinner has not been > trimmed to increase the nose bowl to spinner distance, consider doing > that first (If you have the taper shaft). I guess I should have asked > whether or not you have the Super Bowl, because I have seen problems > with those in the past. OBTW you need to check and make certain that > the nose ring is mounted under/behind the carburetor air inlet, If it > is not, I would say that is a major problem that needs to be > corrected. > Now remove the spinner, prop, and nose bowl. Measure the distance > from the ring that the nose bowl mounts to, to the firewall top and > bottom. Remove any spacers between the nose ring and the engine > mounts. If there were no spacers, it will be much easier to move > the bottom of the ring aft than the top, but harder to fit the > side/top cowling.How far you need to move the cowling will > determine how you conduct the move. If it is only an 1/8 inch or > so, you should be able to force the nose bowl back (after taking > out the 5 screws that hold it to the nose ring) re-drill the holes > and re-fasten the nose bowl. If you have to shorten the mounting > distance of the nose ring to the engine, a small amount can be > taken up by compressing the mounting section. If you need a 1/4 > inch or more, I would look carefully at the installation before > cutting and re-welding the mounting ring. Are the proper length > engine mount bolts installed? (the rubber mounts should be > compressed so about 1/8 inch of rubber is exposed) Are the .050 > washers installed between the engine mount bolt nut and the rubber? > The entire cowling can be moved aft (after the nose ring is moved) > by loosening the engine mount bolts and moving the cowling supports > aft the amount you need to gain. When you put everything back > together, you most likely will have to leave the rubber ring that > goes around the fuselage tank filler out of the top cowling. Put the > cowling in place and determine how much material you will have to > remove from the cowling to get the rubber ring in place. You may end > up putting a patch over the old hole and making a completely new > hole. Once that is done, you should be able to mount the cowling > back in place and have the desired clearance on the spinner. > I realize this did not cover everything, but it should give you a > pretty good idea of what needs to be looked at and possibly changed. > I still think the best bet is to take it to Paul and have him fix > the problem. > Lynn Nelsen > ============================================================================== > To leave this forum go to: http://ercoupers.com/lists.htm > > > > > ============================================================================== > To leave this forum go to: http://ercoupers.com/lists.htm > > > ============================================================================== To leave this forum go to: http://ercoupers.com/lists.htm
