Thanks Lee ... My Leopard has undergone a lithium diet, so it used to be 2660 with lead, is now around 2000. The off-charge is also a little less with lithium actually (I stop at 3.4 x 38 [129v] vs. the 15x8.8 [132] I used to have).
The 100amps is *battery* amps - and probably I was starting in 2nd gear (1st is just way too short on the Leopard/LeCar - I routinely started my gasoline LeCar [back in the day] in 2nd gear). Looking at the "spray" that came out of the end cap, which looks a little bit like molasses, I'd guess it was a capacitor that blew. I've called a company near me that deals with Curtis controllers, and they'll fix it for $749 or sell me a new one, with my old core exchanged, for $872. In either case, they didn't indicate a higher price if the controller was completely hosed vs. only slightly exploded. But if Curtis is kind of wimpy, what would be a better one to go with? Though I hate putting a bunch more money into it ... I'd rather have something reliable and flexible. ----- Dan Gallagher http://www.evalbum.com/3854 -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Curtis-Controller-Popped-tp4660481p4660484.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
