Dan, If you've removed all of the screws that attach the internal heatsink from the bottom of the control, put the hole thing in the oven at 185F and let it heat soak for about 1/2 hour. Everything should pull out of the extruded heatsink. I've done this several times on Curtis controls without a problem. 185F shouldn't exceed any of the temp ratings on the internal electronics. Rod
----- Original Message ---- From: Danpatgal <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Sun, January 13, 2013 8:46:52 PM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Curtis Controller Popped Update: So, I got the bottom screws out and the screw spacers (and the end cap came off already), but I'm having a heck of a time getting the whole thing out from the contactor (front) side. I've used a jewelry "saw" to cut around the edges on the contactor side, but it doesn't want to come out at all. Am I just not cutting down enough through the resin (I've gone down only about 2mm or so) Has anyone done this have any wisdom to impart? This is a 1221C-7401. Thanks - Dan ----- Dan Gallagher http://www.evalbum.com/3854 -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Curtis-Controller-Popped-tp4660481p4660552.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
