Have any of you guys seen a taper lock battery post connection? I search on the web and cannot find them. They came out in the 70's for the standard taper battery post that has a stud on top. At that time each link cost about $20.00 each.
They also make a taper lock adapter post that has a threaded stud clean through the post. It then can be screw on to a internal threaded post like you guys are using. The cable or link taper connection slid down on the taper post leaving the connection about 1/4 inch above the post. You than tighten up the stud to 110 inch lbs which locks it like a taper lock coupler. This type of link fastener provides two forces on the post which is the side pressure of the taper link on to the side of the post and the internal pressure of the head of the bolt stud against the taper connection cause by the pull out pressure of the bolt stud. I use this connection method on my batteries using a standard plated copper battery clamp with a auto post with a bolt stud. Install this type of battery connection in 2009 and just finish re-torqueing the links for the second time. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Gabrielsson<mailto:[email protected]> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2014 10:42 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Keeping LiFePO4 battery terminals tight every 10k miles NiMH batteries tends to leak a litte around the terminals as they get older. The electrolyte causes some funky fuzz buildup, usually around the negative terminal IIRC. I don't know what you mean by plated steal being bad, nor do I know that that is what they're using, the mating surfaces are certainly not plated steel. The prius battery packs have an excellent track record as you may know. On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Martin WINLOW <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: > Ye Gads! I wouldn't like to see that same picture 10k miles from now. > Has this pack been submerged or something? Plated steel is a very poor > idea! MW > > > On 8 Jan 2014, at 16:32, Peter Gabrielsson wrote: > > > Here's a picture of what Toyota use in their prius battery terminals: > > http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/batbox/80corropen.jpg<http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/batbox/80corropen.jpg> > > > > Notice the nut with the captive bellville washer. They used the same type > > in their RAV4 EVs. > > > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 8, 2014 at 7:48 AM, Michael Ross <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> > >wrote: > > > >> Martin, > >> > >> I have no experience with the aluminum post cells. But it is just > >> aluminum. Aluminum is elastic and will not take a set, so it is just > fine > >> for torquing to a level that will not give up. From my POV there is not > >> much more to be said about it. The use of split washes concentrates > the > >> clamping forces and make the joint less effective. They are a waste of > >> money and stack height from a design engineer's POV. But if you use > them > >> it is probably not a problem. They only work as a lock after the joint > is > >> completely loose, however; and they don't actually stop the joint from > >> loosening before that point. The loss of joint clamping force is > caused by > >> materials in the joint stretching or compressing. You won't find a > split > >> washer on a Cat, Deere, Toyota, Ford, you name it product. However they > >> are popular no denying that. With Al for a threaded member you don't > need > >> hardened washers, because you can't clamp hard enough to get utility > from > >> them. But you do want flat, clean, metal only, parts in the stack. > >> Belleville washers are not a bad idea, they help maintain clamping force > >> as a joint loosens. Maybe the Norlocks do some of that too. > >> > >> > >> Dave Roden, > >> > >> Head bolts have hardened flat washers. They use large fasteners as and > >> torque them VERY high to completely take any compliance out of the head > >> gasket, and many use a torque to yield technique where you don't even > >> measure the torque* per se *- you torque until the bolt stretches > >> permanently. With good steel and high quality manufacture you can take > a > >> head bolt into the plastic range and it will not be damaged to cause > >> failure, if you do this you get the maximum force possible. > >> > >> > >> Lot's of nice replies, but I just hit these two for commenting in the > short > >> time I have right now. > >> > >> > >> On Wed, Jan 8, 2014 at 11:09 AM, EVDL Administrator <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> > >> wrote: > >> > >>> On 8 Jan 2014 at 6:03, tomw wrote: > >>> > >>>> And while you are at it, remove those lock washers! :^)) > >>> > >>> I'm really surprised to hear people say this. I've used split washers > >> and > >>> Bellville washers on batteries for 25+ years, and they've done me well. > >>> > >>> I also can't recall ever encountering any bolted battery connection on > >> any > >>> commercial product that didn't have a lockwasher. And think about it - > >>> have > >>> you ever seen any case in a vibrating, lurching vehicle where there > >> wasn't > >>> something resilient (a head gasket for example) that lockwashers > weren't > >>> used? > >>> > >>> One thing to be careful of is that you want your lug in direct contact > >> with > >>> the battery terminal itself, with no washers between them to add > >>> resistance. > >>> You add the washer(s) between the fastener and the lug. > >>> > >>> Some discussion too of terminal glop. With flooded batteries, I > normally > >>> use petroleum jelly to exclude air and moisture. Many years ago I got > a > >>> free can of some kind of Cosmolene-like spray with an order of USBMC > golf > >>> car batteries. That stuff worked well too and was easy to use. The > >> key, I > >>> think, is that I put the goo on AFTER tightening the connection, not on > >> the > >>> mating contact surfaces. (Though I've known people who DID use grease > on > >>> mating surfaces.) > >>> > >>> I don't think I've ever bothered with grease when using valve regulated > >>> batteries, however. Maybe I should have, but nothing bad has yet > >> happened. > >>> > >>> To get back to the point, I'm pretty skeptical about washerless battery > >>> connections. If you try this, please make sure you keep us updated on > >> how > >>> it's going over time. For now, though, I'm sticking with lockwashers. > >>> > >>> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA > >>> EVDL Administrator > >>> > >>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = > >>> EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/<http://www.evdl.org/help/> > >>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = > >>> Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not > >>> reach me. 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