----- Original Message -----
From: Roland via EV<mailto:[email protected]>
To: Jay Summet<mailto:[email protected]> ; Electric Vehicle Discussion
List<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Melted fuse leg (not blown fuse!)
Hello Jay,
Use a Bussman Fustron or better a Bussman Limitron fuse. I use a 60 amp
Limitron fuse between my PFC-50 charger and the batteries. The charger has a
built in 50 amp breaker which is on a 50 amp service.
The next line should read - between my main battery - and
I also use a 400 amp Limitron fuse between my charger and a 1000 amp Café
Electric motor controller. All my fuses in the EV are Limitron type down to 1
amp rating. All install in 1980 and still going today.
I have a spare Limitron fuses in spare fuse holders rated down to 1 amp and a
Bussman Semi Conductor 400 amp fuse which never was use yet. I get my fuses
from a electrical supply house, you can also get them from Home Depot by
ordering from the contractor counter.
To adjust the maximum voltage output from your charger, there should be a
voltage adjustment on your charger. I am using a charger control panel which
is in addition to the charger, which displays the AC input volts and ampere,
plus the DC output volts and ampere to monitor the output voltage of the
charger.
To set the maximum voltage, make sure the dc current is turn all the way down.
It is not good to have the current turn up before you turn on the charger,
because the output surge could take out the charger.
Next, turn on the charger and monitor the DC output voltage. Slowly bring up
the ampere/current to the level you want. The batteries should be somewhat
discharge to do the voltage adjustment. As the voltage rises to the set point
you want, than turn the voltage adjustment CCW until the voltage does not rise
above this point.
I adjust my voltage to 4.0 volt per cell which is about 95% of the rated 4.2
volt maximum cell voltage. The PFC charger has eight control switches which
are set according to your charger manual depending what type of battery and BMS
you are using.
I chose to turn all the switches off, which allows the charger to start to
taper the current as some as it reaches the max voltage set point you want.
The charger will then taper to 0 ampere and will not charge any more.
According to my BMS Orion Manual, the maximum charge voltage should not go
above 95%, so as to leave room for regenerative current.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Summet via EV<mailto:[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 7:42 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Melted fuse leg (not blown fuse!)
Has anybody ever melted the plastic and holder of an Automotive ATC
fuse, without blowing the fuse itself?
I had a cheap AutoZone in-line fuse holder with a 30 Amp fuse on the 12
volt line between the DC-2-DC and accessory battery, and today one side
of the holder and one side of the fuse melted and made a nasty burning
smell while I was driving down the road.
This was especially concerning with my new Leaf Modules just recently
installed ;>
I was actually quite relieved to find it was "just" a melted fuse. The
funny thing is that the fuse itself didn't blow, it still has
connectivity when I touch inside where the leg used to be.
The only thing I can think of is that while I was moving wires around
for the install of the new charger the fuse got slightly jolted and one
leg had a loose contact with the holder, causing a high resistance
connection and lots of heat without going over 30 amps.
Impressively melted photos here:
http://www.summet.com/blog/2016/01/04/melted-fuse-leg/
Jay
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