Hello Roland,
Not sure where you get your information
However, Dr. Dahn says that most damaging parasitic reactions that cause early
cell failure happen above 4.0 volts he does not say all of the effects cease.
He also states that it is the length off time held at the highest charge
voltage that causes the most damage. Longer is worse.
You may not be doing what you think are. If anything the taper CV stage should
be eliminated.
In addition, regenerative braking only puts about 5% of energy used to move
forward back. so if you drive 100 feet you would need to brake 2000 feet of
braking to get back to start before you would start to go over 100% state of
charge ...... so unless you park on a hill and start you drive rolling down the
hill it's not going to effect the battery. It still won't do much even if you
do this for a short time frame.
In addition, Dr. Dahn sated that Nissan uses two different chemistries....
- Lithium Cobalt Manganese Oxide (Li[NiMnCo]02)
- Moderate parasitic reactions at 30°C
- ~50% of Nissan Leaf and Chevy Volt packs
- Lithium Manganese Oxide (LiMn02)
- Highest parasitic reactions of all examples at 30°C and even worse at
60°C
- ~50% Part of the Nissan Leaf and Chevy Volt battery pack
- Ill-suited to use in battery packs without thermal management, like the
Nissan Leaf.
From: Roland via EV <[email protected]>
To: Jay Summet <[email protected]>; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
<[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 4, 2016 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Melted fuse leg (not blown fuse!)
Hello Jay,
I adjust my voltage to 4.0 volt per cell which is about 95% of the rated 4.2
volt maximum cell voltage. The PFC charger has eight control switches which
are set according to your charger manual depending what type of battery and BMS
you are using.
I chose to turn all the switches off, which allows the charger to start to
taper the current as some as it reaches the max voltage set point you want.
The charger will then taper to 0 ampere and will not charge any more.
According to my BMS Orion Manual, the maximum charge voltage should not go
above 95%, so as to leave room for regenerative current.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Summet via EV<mailto:[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 7:42 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Melted fuse leg (not blown fuse!)
Has anybody ever melted the plastic and holder of an Automotive ATC
fuse, without blowing the fuse itself?
I had a cheap AutoZone in-line fuse holder with a 30 Amp fuse on the 12
volt line between the DC-2-DC and accessory battery, and today one side
of the holder and one side of the fuse melted and made a nasty burning
smell while I was driving down the road.
This was especially concerning with my new Leaf Modules just recently
installed ;>
I was actually quite relieved to find it was "just" a melted fuse. The
funny thing is that the fuse itself didn't blow, it still has
connectivity when I touch inside where the leg used to be.
The only thing I can think of is that while I was moving wires around
for the install of the new charger the fuse got slightly jolted and one
leg had a loose contact with the holder, causing a high resistance
connection and lots of heat without going over 30 amps.
Impressively melted photos here:
http://www.summet.com/blog/2016/01/04/melted-fuse-leg/
Jay
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