Paul, While the data you quote is correct in a certain context, your explanation is not, since it uses a different context. Regen braking will put back in your pack around 5% of an average trip since a trip typically consists of long periods of driving and a handful times of braking.
However, the way you explained it (how much energy do you get back from regen braking) is well over 50% since it is a simple calculation to take the energy that the vehicle is traveling with (kinetic energy) and calculate how much of that energy is transformed from kinetic energy via the drivertrain, the motor working as generator and finally the controller, back to the pack. This can easily be over 2/3 of the kinetic energy, so that a cycle of braking and then pulling the energy from the pack again to accelerate can show a restoration of around 50% of the previous level after the conversion: kinetic - electric - chemical(battery) - electric - kinetic Since Kinetic energy goes by the speed squared, you can typically regain about 70% of the previously traveled speed by accelerating just from the last regen battery charge, before you start dipping deeper into your pack. Hope this clarifies the confusion, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info http://www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -----Original Message----- From: EV [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of paul dove via EV Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 5:53 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Melted fuse leg (not blown fuse!) Hello Roland, Not sure where you get your information However, Dr. Dahn says that most damaging parasitic reactions that cause early cell failure happen above 4.0 volts he does not say all of the effects cease. He also states that it is the length off time held at the highest charge voltage that causes the most damage. Longer is worse. You may not be doing what you think are. If anything the taper CV stage should be eliminated. In addition, regenerative braking only puts about 5% of energy used to move forward back. so if you drive 100 feet you would need to brake 2000 feet of braking to get back to start before you would start to go over 100% state of charge ...... so unless you park on a hill and start you drive rolling down the hill it's not going to effect the battery. It still won't do much even if you do this for a short time frame. In addition, Dr. Dahn sated that Nissan uses two different chemistries.... - Lithium Cobalt Manganese Oxide (Li[NiMnCo]02) - Moderate parasitic reactions at 30°C - ~50% of Nissan Leaf and Chevy Volt packs - Lithium Manganese Oxide (LiMn02) - Highest parasitic reactions of all examples at 30°C and even worse at 60°C - ~50% Part of the Nissan Leaf and Chevy Volt battery pack - Ill-suited to use in battery packs without thermal management, like the Nissan Leaf. From: Roland via EV <[email protected]> To: Jay Summet <[email protected]>; Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, January 4, 2016 11:41 PM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Melted fuse leg (not blown fuse!) Hello Jay, I adjust my voltage to 4.0 volt per cell which is about 95% of the rated 4.2 volt maximum cell voltage. The PFC charger has eight control switches which are set according to your charger manual depending what type of battery and BMS you are using. I chose to turn all the switches off, which allows the charger to start to taper the current as some as it reaches the max voltage set point you want. The charger will then taper to 0 ampere and will not charge any more. According to my BMS Orion Manual, the maximum charge voltage should not go above 95%, so as to leave room for regenerative current. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: Jay Summet via EV<mailto:[email protected]> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]> Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 7:42 PM Subject: [EVDL] Melted fuse leg (not blown fuse!) Has anybody ever melted the plastic and holder of an Automotive ATC fuse, without blowing the fuse itself? I had a cheap AutoZone in-line fuse holder with a 30 Amp fuse on the 12 volt line between the DC-2-DC and accessory battery, and today one side of the holder and one side of the fuse melted and made a nasty burning smell while I was driving down the road. This was especially concerning with my new Leaf Modules just recently installed ;> I was actually quite relieved to find it was "just" a melted fuse. The funny thing is that the fuse itself didn't blow, it still has connectivity when I touch inside where the leg used to be. The only thing I can think of is that while I was moving wires around for the install of the new charger the fuse got slightly jolted and one leg had a loose contact with the holder, causing a high resistance connection and lots of heat without going over 30 amps. Impressively melted photos here: http://www.summet.com/blog/2016/01/04/melted-fuse-leg/ Jay _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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