Should have bought a Volt!  The 2013-2014 can be purchased for 11-13K$  My 2014 
had 51k miles and I bought it for 11.8K.I'm not trying to be a jerk for 
mentioning this and understand your technical issues, I still own 2 2000 Honda 
Insight's that I needto figure out what I should do, sell or convert.  I plan 
on converting one of them, but the Chevy Volt is a luxury vehicle that 
drivesbetter than any car I've owned.  I drive primarily on electric only, but 
the gas backup is nice.  I plan on converting one of the Insights as a 
projectand I love those cars, but the ride is like a rickshaw compared to the 

    On Thursday, August 3, 2017 10:22 PM, Jay Summet via EV <> 

 For $60, I'd just replace it.  I don't know anything about the "Plug-In 
Supply" conversion system, or how a lower voltage will affect anything 
else in the car.

The replacement cell will (presumably) have more capacity than your 
original ones, but assuming that the current loop cuts out the charger 
when the smallest capacity cell is "full" this shouldn't pose a problem, 
you just won't be taking full advantage of it's newer/larger capacity.


On 08/03/2017 04:34 PM, mnevans via EV wrote:
> I'm new to this discussion list, so I ask your patience: my understanding of
> EV systems and Li-ion batteries is limited.
> The question is: replace a bad battery in a pack of 19, or make the pack 2
> batteries smaller and suffer an unknown loss of voltage and range?
> Background:
> I think I have a bad battery in one of 19 batteries that is in the second
> bank of a 4 bank x 19 CALB CA40FI battery pack.  The battery pack is used in
> a 10KW battery that is part of a Plug-In Supply conversion of a 2004 Prius
> to a plug-in Prius.  Robb Protheroe installed the system in late 2014, and
> it has seen about 10K miles, maybe 60% of that in all electric mode, about
> 900 partial or full charge cycles.
> The evidence that the battery is bad is an incomplete loop circuit.  I found
> that the battery management board atop the suspect battery was not powered,
> and moving that BMS board to another battery adjacent powered it.    The
> suspect battery was at 2.67V.  The others adjacent are at 3.0V.  Originally
> they were all balanced at 3.26-3.27V.
> Robb Protheroe at Plug-In Supply suggested replacing the battery with a new
> one.  Unfortunately CALB no longer makes this 40Ah battery, but the Sinopoly
> or Winston 40Ah prismatic cells are nearly the same dimensions and
> specifications.  It looks like I can get a replacement for about USD$60
> including shipping to me in Maryland USA, using (a US
> supplier wanted $42 shipping for a $55 cell).
> The other option is to remove the bad battery and the one adjacent, and
> carry on with a lower voltage pack.  Robb is unsure whether the range loss
> would be proportional (7%, I can live with that), or more, due to "voltage
> sag" and age of cells.  He suggested I ask you, so here I am.
> Questions:
> 1. Would you recommend replacing or removing batteries from my pack?
> 2. If removing, what is your guess on loss of range due to lower pack V,
> voltage sag?
> 3. If replacing, do you expect the new cell to assume the lifetime of the
> rest of the batteries in the pack, as others have written on this listserv?
> So far I am thinking to try removing, see how the range is affected by
> testing on a known route that is longer than the original hybrid range with
> this pack installed.  If unacceptably worse, add back the replacement cell.
> If not, carry on with the slightly smaller battery pack.  But I would be
> grateful for the wisdom of the list.
> Thank you in advance for your help,
> Mike
> --
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