John, What company is selling epoxy paint in a rattle can. I wasnt aware that could even be done? Personally, I use Banner red Krylon. It will last a long time, if something isnt rubbing or scraping on it. Bill Schmidt 88 red devil kawi
>>> John Whitling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 11/06/06 9:53 AM >>> I used Epoxy paint (spray can type) and it has proved to be quite durable. Far better than any other spray paint types. Steve K. Thompson wrote: >Don't get it powdercoated. When you have to work on the frame again (and >you will) the powdercoating is very difficult to remove compared to >regular paint and hides new cracks a lot better because it's a little >plastic. You'll work a lot harder getting down to steel and you'll also >end up thinning the surrounding areas once you want once you get below >the coating. Unless someone out there knows something about strippers >that work on powdercoat? > >Also check what kind of media they are blasting your frame with. I >personally do not care for sand/glass as it imbeds itself in the surface >and should be cleaned out prior to welding. There are some different >media out there that do not (walnut, silicon oxide etc). > >My 0.02. > >Steve > > > >>-----Original Message----- >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:f500- >>[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Reinhardt >>Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 2:04 PM >>To: [email protected] >>Subject: Re: [F500] Frame Cracks >> >> Dave, good advice, as a welder I agree. I would take off all the >>bodywork and take pictures of everything, every assembly to make sure >> >> >it > > >>goes back the same way. Find a powder coater in your area that will >> >> >do > > >>the car when finished, have him sand blast the chassis for you. Put >> >> >the > > >>sandblasted chassis up on some horses and like Dave said inspect every >>inch with a good light light and a magnifying glass. Get a blue or >> >> >red > > >>sharpie and mark every questionable point. Nobody will ever inspect >> >> >your > > >>car as well as you will. >> Again as Dave said, gusset every pickup point on the car, ie, the >>control arm mounting points, rear radius rod and panard points, shock >>mounting points. >> You can mig or tig it as long as it's not chrome moly, then it's >> >> >gas or > > >>tig only. Any good welder should be able to do he job, but either a >> >> >guy > > >>that does racecar or aircraft repairs wold be the best, sheet metal >>welders would be next on the list... >> When you're happy with the welds, send it back to the powder coater >> >> >to > > >>finish it up.. >> I'm in the middle of that myself right now, so I know where you're >> >> >at. > > >>I'm going to Krylon the chassis because I know there'll be changes, >> >> >but > > >>when I'm happy with it, I'll do the same and have it blasted, inspect >> >> >it, > > >>then send it back to get powder coated. >> >> Good Luck!!!! >> >> CR [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of jwhit.vcf] ________________________________ FormulaCar Magazine - A Proud Supporter of Formula 500 The Official Publication of Junior Formula Car Racing Subscribe Today! www.formulacarmag.com or 519-624-2003 _________________________________ _______________________________________________ F500 mailing list - [email protected] To unsubscribe or change options please visit: http://f500.org/mailman/listinfo/f500 *** Please, DO NOT send unsubscribe requests to the mailing list! ***
