John,
What follows is in no particular order and I'm sure something important will
be left out.
Shop manual / clean everything/ verify the crank work, check the runout,
rod clearance and make sure #1 and #2 are 180 degrees apart. / mounting
holes in lower crankcase are a lot easier to heli-coil if needed before the
engine is built up. / I like Yamaha's crankcase sealant,( for the case
halves) others have their
own preferred goo./ I try to get the crankcase, cylinders and head assembled
and then pressure check them before all the other crap goes on./ Even
with new
parts it pays to check the ring end gaps/
Check the
oil injection check valves for "cracking" pressure, verify correct oil line
routing/ After market head gaskets preferred over the pain in the butt
factory
style/ Bleed the oil injection per shop manual /
Ignition timing is more accurate using a piston stop and degree wheel,
but I think the dial indicator method will be close enough. I'd check
the timing shortly
after you get it fired up/ Maybe be a little conservative on the jetting
till it
gets some time on it/
I think the Kaw shop manual is pretty good on these engines, between the
manual and taking your time with it you'll be fine. Springs a long ways
off so no reason to hurry. Next year should be a lot more fun if you
don't have to fight with the [EMAIL PROTECTED]&* engine.....of course something
else is always waiting!
Dave Phaneuf
Oops, almost forgot you're Canadian, you'll need BEER!
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