First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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When I got my body back from the sand blaster, they did a good job of blowing 
out the sand. The only place it took some more effort on was in the quarter 
panel pockets. My car was completely bolt free-stripped. You should consider 
putting tape and/or signs (spray can saying DON'T BLAST HERE!) on any areas 
that you don't want them to touch. Keep in mind the guy you explain it to that 
gives you the quote etc. is not going to do the work. It will be some minimum 
wage guy that may not really care so taping and signs are the way to go. My 
mistake was telling them to lightly dust the roof (inside). If I had to do it 
over again, I would use the same process except deal with the roof (inside) 
myself.
 
SHeen
> .........................................................................> I 
> don't think I am missing the point at all.  "Won't effect rubberd" is an 
> absurd arguement.  You cannot restore a 40 year old automobile while leaving 
> orginal rubber bits or chrome in place.  Removing them is where you have to 
> start.   Sure, you won't damage rubber or glass with soda blasting.  So what? 
>  You cannot restore one of these cars without removing the set glass and 
> bringing the steel down to bare steel.  You just won't.  This is where these 
> cars first rotted through.  You won't restore a Firebird by skipping these 
> important steps of disassembling the car and cleaning it down to bare steel 
> everywhere.  So, "won't hurt rubber"  or won't hurt this or that is not a 
> presuasive arguement.  The Soda blasting may be gentle on the metal or rubber 
> bits during the process.  These parts are needing replacement anyway, so what 
> have you saved?    A car you wan't to "restore" for auction, soda will get t
 he car under paint to last a> season or two.  For a car you value, you need to 
strip to bare metal properly and without leaving chemicals behind.  Aluminum 
oxide does not leave active chemicals behind.  Soda remains chemically active 
until the reaction is spent.>  > Soda blasting leaves a fine dust like flour 
throught out the car and the seams that remains chemically active.  Soda 
attracts moisture and causes moisture to cling to metal where you can't clean 
it.  Sure, soda might be good on a panel where you have access to scrub it off. 
 But these cars are full of hems, seams, pinch welds and  nooks &  cranies  
this soda dust can never be cleared out of.  It all retains moisture.  That is 
why a box of Arm and Hammer soda clumps when it sits.  Worse yet, it is 
chemically reactive.   This  chemical activity  will cause continued corrosion 
and then paint failure later on.  If you have ever examined a paint failure, it 
begins at a breach in the finish.  The rust crawls under the 
 finish for great distances.  It lifts paint as it travels beneath the paint.  
Worse yet, the finish traps moisture that accelerates the rotting process.  >  
> The more I rotate my project on the rotisserie, the more media that drifts 
out.  Imagine this is a chemically reactive flour that you can't vacuum out of 
seams and that doesn't drift out as you move the project but remains trapped in 
seams and hems to cause continued corrosion and rusting.  You might as well 
spray your car with Ford Maverick remover spray. >  > You don't see Chip Foose 
sending cars out for "soda blasting".  This is not a suited process for 
restoration work.  It is a process for folks rushing a car through 
"restoration", tractors, or for the "buy it now" jackson acution while not 
attending to the defects that cause these cars to rot out later on.  >  > 
Larry>    
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