There is still now a bit of a rigamarole at the Central Library—you have to 
check your bag, take only paper and a pencil they issue to you, and I, at 
least, had to purchase a membership, being a foreigner, perhaps? Once over 
those hurdles, though, the service was superb, and even the director came up to 
where I was seated and asked if he could help! And the librarians were also 
very helpful. 

It is very distressing about the Archives — such a rich repository for 
historical documents, likely being systematically destroyed by neglect and 
abuse, not to mention terrible environmental conditions. 

As an independent researcher and writer working on a couple of projects related 
to Goa, I feel your pain. 

Regards, Debra 

~~~~~~~~~~

Debra Nicholson, MFA, MA
www.debranicholson.com
alternate email: [email protected]

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2023, at 2:47 PM, Bernardo de Sousa <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> This piece was published by a Goa daily 15+ years ago. Clearly, the attitude 
> of the staff has not changed. Nor for that matter the utter disrespect with 
> which priceless ancient documents are treated:
> 
> 
> Aal izz “Sit” in Goa’s State Archives
>  
> By Bernardo de Sousa
>  
> Any visit to Goa needs to start with a wallet refueling stop at a bank. 
> Having connections speeds up that process. In the Mapusa bank we went to, a 
> lady was seated at a desk, dozing peacefully; she suddenly woke up, picked up 
> a ball, rolled it on the desk, then returned to dozing. We later learnt that 
> banks are required to hire personnel belonging to scheduled castes/tribes. 
> Being a local bank, this occurs through the intercession of an MLA: the 
> candidate controlling the largest number of votes gets the job.  A win-win 
> situation:  our aspiring athlete gets a salary, the MLA gets the votes. Thus, 
> “vote bank” politics ensure the “upliftment” of the downtrodden. 
>  
> My contact at the bank being away, I was instructed to head upstairs. The 
> scene was chaotic: no boards indicating which counter handled which 
> transaction, people rushing to any counter that was manned. An acquaintance 
> said he would call Mr. X and guided us to a pair of chairs with a parting 
> instruction: “Sit” -- an instruction I would repeatedly encounter in Goa with 
> devastating consequences. 
>  
> After about an hour, I managed to obtain from Mr. X the prized ATM card that, 
> sadly, failed to function until our departure. For expediency, we cashed 
> traveler’s cheques at Vivanta hotel in Panaji, where the transaction absorbed 
> all of three minutes flat -- the most efficient and friendliest service I 
> have ever encountered anywhere on the planet. 
> 
> Our wallet thus replenished, we headed to the State Archives, Panaji, where I 
> wished to consult a list of historical documents. 
>  
> We were greeted at the ground floor by an overpowering smell of naphthalene, 
> attempting unsuccessfully to mask the odours from the nearby toilet. The 
> strong influence of carnival in Goa is not to be underestimated – a vote bank 
> mask at the bank, a naphthalene mask at the State Archives.
>  
> The clerk at a counter instructed me to go upstairs to see the manager. I did 
> not quite comprehend why but arguments would only waste time. We were invited 
> into the manager’s cramped office. “Sit!” he instructed. Not again! After 
> reading my list, he confirmed that the documents were public; we were thus in 
> violent agreement but the documents still eluded me. 
>  
> I was now instructed to cross the corridor to the public documents section; 
> as we did so, we saw a lady sitting on a bench, resting one of her feet on 
> it, blissfully cutting her toe-nails. I did not need an explanation: another 
> vote bank mask with an aspiring beautician replacing an aspiring athlete. 
>  
> In the public domain, five persons were seated at five desks, engaged in deep 
> conversation, otherwise doing nothing. I showed one of them the titles of the 
> documents. She looked at it and shouted to her colleague a few meters away. 
> Having been disdainfully ignored twice, she approached the recalcitrant 
> colleague, exchanged a few furious words, returned, turned to me and ordered: 
> “Sit”. 
>  
> Decidedly, “sit” was becoming the bane of my short holiday. In my mind, I 
> silently slipped an “h” in between the “sit” but refrained from vocalising my 
> thought.
>  
> Explaining to us children the intricacies of traditional Goan hospitality, 
> our father once recounted that guests were routinely greeted with the Konkani 
> phrase: “Ailoi, io, bosloi, bos, kashti sodd, lepti kha” – loosely translated 
> “you have arrived, please come in, sit down, loosen your loin-cloth, share 
> our food”. I did not expect these five uncooperative chair-warmers to share 
> their food but there was no escaping the instruction to sit. I politely but 
> resolutely declined. The lady repeated her instruction except that this time 
> it was an order: “Sit”. 
>  
> The situation was turning hopeless. Asked how long this was going to take, 
> she muttered: “5 minutes”. My heart sank: in Goa, 5 minutes encompass any 
> span between 5 minutes and eternity. I heard my wife say that she had been 
> handed a form that I was required to complete hence, sitting down may not be 
> a bad idea. Her pragmatic logic carrying the day, I sat down, opened the 
> small rucksack containing my pen and other items. “You have to keep your bag 
> downstairs,” said the recalcitrant librarian, who had just concluded his 
> yogic meditation and was back in command barking out his orders. 
>  
> I explained to him that I had carried my rucksack all this time from the 
> counter downstairs, transiting through his manager’s office into the public 
> documents section, without anyone’s objection until then. He repeated his 
> order, this time raising his voice. Another mask, what was his bark really 
> masking? Resentment because I was an NRI, PIO or OCI? Or because I had not 
> presented him with a motivating incentive in an envelope? 
>  
> Do they still insist on envelopes, or would plain cash do? Or was he another 
> vote bank beneficiary who resented having been disturbed from his reverie or 
> conversation? I had had enough of this rude, uncooperative, unhelpful, 
> obstructionist and bureaucratic attitude of the Goa State Archives staff. I 
> got up, returned the form to the lady who had given it, and walked out. 
>  
> Back in the taxi, our friend suggested visiting the Central Library instead. 
> Indeed, I was led to the relevant section immediately - and could finally 
> consult and photograph the documents of interest. I now understood why the 
> Central Library was so well frequented whereas, excepting staff, not a soul 
> other than my wife, our friend and I were present at the public documents 
> section of the State Archives. 
>  
> This time around, when a kindly member of the Central Library staff pulled up 
> a chair and asked me to sit, I was delighted to comply.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>>> On 1 May 2023, at 19:20, 'Carvalho' via Goa-Research-Net 
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Dear Albertina,
>> 
>> I totally agree with you. I didn't want to say it in my initial message. 
>> Technology would certainly help and is the need of the hour as those books 
>> under no circumstances should be passed around like pie to men jabbing felt 
>> pens at them, but the more important thing is attitude. There are lots of 
>> things one can do ease the process. For instance there is one (just one) 
>> moth-eaten catalogue which looks like it survived Noah's flood, used by one 
>> clerk to find out the reference number of the required document. All that 
>> needs to be done is print out 10 catalogue books and keep them for use by 
>> the general public. Or better still upload the catalogue online and make it 
>> accessible. Then the public can provide the clerk with the reference number. 
>> All it takes is the will power to improve systems. There needs to be a very 
>> radical change in attitude in every organisation. The Gandhian 
>> non-cooperation movement in Goa is alive and kicking.
>> 
>> And Sandra, absolutely, being a woman doesn't help.
>> 
>> Also what is up with those pens being allowed into an archive hall for 
>> goodness sake? I had carried a book and pencil inside to make notes. This 
>> was shouted down (fair enough, rules are rules) but for goodness sakes, the 
>> pens must go.
>> 
>> Take care,
>> Selma
>> 
>> 
>> On Monday, 1 May 2023 at 17:44:00 BST, Albertina Almeida 
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Is there anyone here who accessed the Goa Archives about 35 years or more 
>> ago? Where it was accessible even without technology? I somehow think that 
>> it is not just about technology, though technology certainly can help. It is 
>> also about a regimen of corruption, which can persist even with technology.
>> 
>> For instance, at the Registrar's office, the process towards registration of 
>> sale deeds has been digitised. One would have thought that would make it 
>> easier. But approvals of what is uploaded can take sooooo long for some. And 
>> the connectivity and other issues including the website being dysfunctional, 
>> so to say, can make life hell. The whole exercise can be a nightmare. 
>> 
>> So while technology can help, it may not be the panacea. There is something 
>> more.
>> 
>> Albertina
>> 
>> On Mon, May 1, 2023 at 9:55 PM sandra lobo <[email protected]> wrote:
>> He/She is precious, or just a piece of a shameful state of affairs, 
>> particularly at Goa archives? Of course Selma being a women does not help 
>> the situation. For instance, if  one does not hold Indian citizenship then 
>> has to pay seven times the price of copying documents, as if researchers 
>> swim in money. The present head of the Archives, Dipak M. Bandekar, should 
>> be confronted with being runing a historical archive in a modern world. My 
>> experience is that sometimes conversation works miracles (not always). I 
>> hope there are still good examples in Goa, as that of Central Library when 
>> under Carlos Fernandes direction. Without his positive attitude I would have 
>> never been able to perform the ample investigation of my PhD. Good luck, 
>> Selma
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sandra Ataíde Lobo  
>> 
>> <Outlook-tu21a1pp.png>
>> <Outlook-retvcb5t.png>
>> 
>> <Outlook-qdflsbeb.png>
>> https://giepcip.wordpress.com/
>> tmn. ++351 930690459
>> 
>> 
>> De: [email protected] <[email protected]> em 
>> nome de John de Figueiredo <[email protected]>
>> Enviado: 1 de maio de 2023 16:43
>> Para: [email protected] <[email protected]>
>> Assunto: Re: [GRN] Update about Goa Archives
>>  
>> Dear Selma,
>> Please get the name and contact information of the person who helped you. 
>> He/she is precious.
>> Best wishes,
>> John
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 1, 2023, at 2:25 AM, 'Carvalho' via Goa-Research-Net 
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dear all,
>>> 
>>> Thank you for the numerous helpful response regarding Goa Archives. I did 
>>> indeed visit the Goa Archives. I arrived at 10am and sat patiently for an 
>>> hour. Eventually someone recognised me as the writer and hastened my entry 
>>> into the archive hall. This office defied any semblance of modernity and 
>>> had an estranged relationship with technology. By some antediluvian method, 
>>> I ordered a documented assisted by person who recognised me. I then took a 
>>> seat and awaited said document. I sat in a hall full of men who pored over 
>>> centuries-old documents with their arms spread on these books, brandishing 
>>> felt pens, the documents spine straddled without support. After I saw this, 
>>> I felt nausea creeping up and tried to avoid eye contact with anyone, most 
>>> of all the clerks in the room. 
>>> 
>>> I sat for another one hour and could see all the peons chatting but no 
>>> document had arrived. I went to the head clerk and asked about the possible 
>>> arrival of my book. He nodded to a peon, they laughed, and one frail 
>>> creature departed on his search with all the enthusiasm of a man being led 
>>> to the guillotine. Finally he returned clutching the holy grail of a book 
>>> but when I took custody, it was the wrong book. I went to tell the manager 
>>> who sat in a class cabin with the surly look of a government officer, 
>>> pressing a buzzer to summon people. He dismissed by not looking up. I did 
>>> not wait for the right document because had it arrived, I could neither 
>>> photograph it nor photocopy it. I would have to make an application for the 
>>> record and collect it 15 days later. So I left.
>>> 
>>> Every department, institution and organisation of governance in Goa (and 
>>> unfortunately I have had to visit many) is a failure of efficiency, 
>>> procedure, custody and care. We are light years away from any semblance of 
>>> modernity and our sense of Goan exceptionalism is utterly misplaced.
>>> 
>>> The story does have a happy ending. The man who recognised me researches 
>>> records for a living and I shall simply hire his services.
>>> 
>>> Take care,
>>> Selma
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