Tks all for the information that have been so forth-coming on how to store
bikes for a period of time. This is truely appreciated. From what I have
read, it seems like you folks certainly do have a lot to do in autumn.

Nick

-----Original Message-----
From: wghalley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: 01 October 2002 10:12
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hibernation


Jon
There are definitely bacteria which attack petroleum products.  This is
a real problem in oil-water emulsion cooling systems used on steel
rolling mills and industrial grinders.  Theses things operate in the
140-180 degree range so it's not a problem until they shut down such as
a weekend.  Come Monday morning you think the cooling system is filled
with sewage - a truly amazing amount of stink!

I've also seen some truly gross stuff in old open motor oil - takes a
year or so.

Nick
I would seriously consider using full synthetic oil for storage even if
you don't normally use it.  The synthetic should be more stable than
regular oil or semi-synthetic.  It should be more resistant to varnish
formation and oxdation breakdown and possibly more resistant to
moisture.

If the location you will be storing the bike is damp, be sure to coat
the exposed portion of the shock absorber rods with grease to prevent
rust.  You might also cover the inlet to the airbox to keep moisture out
of the engine.

You also need to worry about rodents, especially mice.  Little beasts
will build nests in your bike and chew the wiring insulation.

When you unstore the bike carefully inspect the tires.  Depending on
temperature, humidity, exposure to sunlight, and smog they may dry out &
crack or the rubber may harden.  I have no idea if any of the tire
protectorants work or not.  I know there are such things but always
suspected they were purely cosmetic.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: GTS-1000 Owners List [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf
Of Crisler, Jon
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 6:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hibernation


Additionally, do not assume that fuel stabilizer is the same for both
gas and diesel.  It is not..they are very different formulations.  The
main thing for diesel is not the breakdown of the fuel and gumming, but
rather a biocide to retard/kill the growth of bacteria (or so I am told,
I do not own anything diesel).

  Now, how bactieria can grow in diesel fuel is beyond me, but
apparently is can.

-----Original Message-----
From: Crisler, Jon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 1:54 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hibernation


Go to a MARINE (i.e. boating) supply store and get the following:

1) Gas stabilizer  (a little goes a long way, get the smallest bottle
you
need)
2) Fogging oil can (spray can)

The reason for this is that they are 1/2 to 1/3 the cost at boat stores
compared to the few cars/bike places that will carry this stuff.  In a
pinch, you can get it from the West Marine or Boaters World websites.


-  Change the oil.  Old oil has acids that slowly eat at the metal.  If
the oil  has less than 500-750 miles, you might skip this step.

-  Put the proper amount of gas stabilizer in the tank, and drive the
bike a few miles to make sure it gets to the injectors etc.  Once the
engine is cool, and you will NOT be starting it again, remove the spark
plugs and spray about 1-2 ounces of fogging oil into each cylinder.
Once done, replace the plugs (keep wires unplugged) and crank the engine
over for 2-4 rotations.  This will coat the cylinders, valves etc. with
a protective coating.  Reinstall the wires.

 Coat the metal surfaces with S100 Metal Protectant.

I have witnessed boats stored for 3 years using this method crank up
quickly.  After 2 years, the gas still tends to go sour, but the
stabilizer really slows down this process.

 When you start it back up, it will produce lots of white/blue smoke as
the fogging oil burns off, but this goes away in a few minutes and is
nothing to worry about (unless you forgot to open the garage door).  The
reason to use fogging oil is that it is formulated to protect the
internal metal surfaces,
and will burn off better than something like motor oil.   Also, by 2-3
years, the gas will burn poorly, so drivability may suffer until the old
gas is gone or replaced.  This is not that big a deal in a 5 gal bike
tank, but becomes a big problem on a boat with 75-500 gals of gas or
diesel.

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