I do NOT agree with the statement "once you change the oil, DONT start the bike". How are you going to get the fresh oil circulated throughout the engine ? And the fresh oil, with additives, detergents, anti-corrosion stuff needs to displace or dilute the little bit of left-over old oil.
-----Original Message----- From: John Laurenson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 7:41 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Hibernation Off the WEB.... http://mototuneusa.com The Cooling System During the cold winter months, you'll want to have aluminum safe antifreeze in your bike. Race bikes are often damaged during the winter since racing regulations don't allow the use of glycol antifreeze. I've seen cylinder heads crack and water pumps burst when racers forgot they had straight water in them! You should at least drain out all the water, but it's much better to have 50% glycol anti freeze in the system to prevent the seals from drying up. Water Wetter type products will freeze, so if you're not sure what's in your system, drain it and use a fresh mix of distilled water and glycol antifreeze. Remember to drain the coolant and put 100% water back in for the first race !! Fuel Stabil fuel stabilizer can be purchased at most auto or motorcycle stores. Fill the tank according to the instructions on the container, then run the stabilized fuel through the system. Turn the petcock off, and run the bike until it stumbles from lack of fuel, then use the choke to run it completely dry. Most of the running problems & carb overhauls in springtime can be avoided by just spending 15 minutes to do this !! Oil While the engine is still warm, drain the oil and remove the filter. Once most of the oil is drained, hit the starter a couple of times to get the excess oil on the gears to fling off and drain out. Replace the drain plug, add fresh oil, fill a new stock oil filter to the top with oil and install it. Now that you've got fresh oil in the engine, don't start your bike !! The moisture and acids that are the by-products of combustion will contaminate your new oil and can cause corrosion during the months ahead. Rings and Valves The quality of your combustion seal is the most important factor in how well your bike will accelerate next summer. The #1 enemy of the valves and rings is rust & corrosion. Motorcycle engines are especially prone to rusting on the seats and valves. Remove the carbs and spray the valves and seats with a light fog of WD 40 or Tri-Flow lubricant. Then remove the spark plugs and blast some down into the cylinders. Battery Avoid having to buy a new battery at the start of riding season !! Take it out now and store it where it's warm and well ventilated. What about charging ? Don't use an auto battery charger, they'll shorten the life of M/C batteries from over charging. I'd recommend either a Sears motorcycle battery charger, or a Battery Tender. The advantage of the Battery Tender is that you can leave it plugged in, and it automatically maintains the optimal charge all winter, just like the way an alternator charges it. Tires Last, don't forget about the effect of cold on your tires ! When the temperature drops so does tire pressure, which causes flat spots and dry rot !! Take the weight off both tires either by parking your bike up on it's center stand, or with front & rear stands. The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may constitute Corvis Corporation Proprietary Information that is subject to Non-Disclosure Agreement and cannot be disclosed to any other party without the express consent of Corvis Corporation. If you are neither the intended recipient of this e-mail nor responsible for delivering this e-mail to the intended recipient, note that any dissemination, distribution, copying, or retention of this e-mail is prohibited. If you believe you have received this e-mail in error, we request that you notify the sender by return e-mail and then delete this e-mail and any return e-mail immediately.
