I spent a space of time this AM trying again to grapple with the
problem...with QEWU and Hunnisette open before me...and the doll/maninqin
with the garment pieces . I understand what you suggest about the idea of
an open sleeveless robe. This was my first idea. After reading Hunnisette
and her design for the film with Glenda Jackson, I see that her design was
compromised by reason of budget.And that she holds the interpretation of the
"red" to be an additional skirt incorperating the gold tissue as is
described by Arnold in QEWU. Very confusing!
My interpretation begins with an interesting bolt of ribbonweave fabric from
the 1950s. The weave is in an appropriate scale for the doll size. I have
made the components of the style using Hunnisette drawings, as well as
Arnold and Waugh. I made both the Hunnisette farthingale and
supportingbum-roll I edged all these pieces including the long hanging
sleeves with tiny bonded rope pearls.
After sewing a few rosettes directly on the gown, decided that appliques of
jeweled rosettes would be more effective. For the purpose, I sprayed a
piece of vintage itallian lace gold and jeweled these for the focal pieces
with tiny freshwater pearls and ruby crystal beads...to be alternated in
placement on the outward face of the gown.
So far, so good...as soon as I can make the final decisions about the
plague-d hanging sleeve.
All instruction ideas so far favor the gown sleeve to be set into the
hanging sleeve, and inserted into the bodice. This seems to be what
Hunnisette did. To do otherwise will probably be a variant as to the
painting evidence.
I am intrigued with your comments about the 'whiteness' of the "real
background"....
KSM
---- Original Message -----
From: "Cin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "h-cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 5:14 PM
Subject: re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
Subject: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI
14" doll. At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat
be set to give a cape effect. On closer examenation, I see that this is
actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett. I
have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with the set. In
order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the
ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve
outside in. This means that the lining will actually be the outside
fabric.
Kathleen,
Yes, I have done something very much like the Ditchely dress, with a
whole lot less beading. The specific gown I was copying was the
Eleanor Powis portrait at Powis castle. I believe what you are seeing
in the Ditchley portrait is two garments. One is a dress (bodice &
skirt) in the French style. Over it, is an open robe or loose gown.
See the Isham or Verney open gowns for styling, cut & construction.
If you get out the National Portrait Gallery catalog (or peruse the
web for a big color version) you'll see that the "background" visible
between Elizabeth's underarm, bodice & sleeve are white like the gown
& sleeves, not blue-gray like the left-half sky or black like the
right-half sky.
Another small query, what is the visible red one can see throught
the space beneath the left arm? This was originally why I thought I
was seeing this "Cape".
My guess, and I'm no expert, the "red" with all the pleating is the
back of the skirt seen in shadow, while the white/gray triangle above
the red is the interior of an open robe. When I drape my open robe
over the drum I get a bit of squnch back there that looks like pooling
water instead of rayed pleats. Admittedly, I'm looking at a 6x9" color
photo, not the real portrait.
Some contemporary portraits with the open robe:
Eleanor Herbert Lady Powis - unknown artist - Castle Powis
Pregnant lady in White - Marcus Gheerarts c1595
Sarah Blount, Countess Leicester
Unknown Lady - W Segar 1595
Some contemporary garments -- open robe:
V&A museum Isham gown
The Verney gown (JArnold PoF)
I also think that there are drum farthingale-style gowns with the
double sleeve; dont get me wrong. The main dancing lady in the Bal
for the Duc de Joyeuse is wearing just such a gown. See also
Elizabeth I by John Bettes.
Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the
backside
of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like
the
painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is
still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any
explanation of how this was done.
When I did my "tawney sarceonet" gown for a drum farthingale I chose
to make my sleeves removeable & interchangeable. Then I made the open
robe separately. The sleeves on the robe are also removeable. I can
wear two sleeves laced together into one armseye. (There's lacings &
eyelets in a band that goes halfway 'round the armseye (e.g. from the
pectoral, over the shoulder to the shoulder blade). My hanging
sleeves are shorter like Pfaltzgrafin Dorothea so I can sit at dinner
& not have boorish men stepping on my sleeve.
This seems like a ridiculous amount of work for so tiny a doll, but
for me, and I'm a little taller, it worked pretty well and I can wear
the robe, several gowns and lots of sleeves, foreparts & stomachers in
a variety of ways.
Think of it as an Elizabethan cruisewear emsemble. <grin>
To get the Ditchley look, I would unlace & remove the sleeves from the
open robe. I'd lace the "Phoenix" style sleeve and hanging sleeve
pairs onto the bodice. Put on the drum, forepart, skirt & bodice.
Pin up skirt ruffles. Toss open robe over the top & pull sleeves
gentle thru the armseyes of the robe. Sweep the body of the coat
backwards over the skirt. Mine is overly heavy. I'd skip the lining
or use a lighter weight silk satin next time. Heh, like I'll redo it.
There's so many more gowns to make.
My interpretation can be found here:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
You should be able to find the two garments shown separately.
The album is: Costume Brag Book
This is the detailed link as Yahoo sends it out.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/album?c=hysteria95126&aid=576460762366662489&pid=&wtok=TbrHsiVpa7SfF7Kkcus0iw--&ts=1165960865&.src=ph
Look for the Ivory robe & giant square supportasse.
Your doll sounds like it will be a work of art. Cant wait to see photos!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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