On Aug 13, 2009, at 9:29 AM, [email protected] wrote:
Yes, that is the infamous chemise gown and would have been made of
lightweight linen or cotton--supposed Marie Antoinette adopted the
style worn by the Creoles in the hot and steamy Caribbean. It is
possible that, during the time, an even more sheer linen or cotton
was used for the ruffles, although I had always thought the sleeve
ruffle was a continuation of the sleeve made by drawing it up.
There is a pattern for an extant English chemise dress in "Cut of
Women's Clothes."
There are extant items that do have an applied ruffle of finer
fabric. For example, there are shifts with the sleeve gathered into a
band and then a ruffle added to the band.
In the images, the double ruffle at the neck would be applied.
A really narrow cuff band would make it easier to control the way the
sleeve ruffle falls. Just using a drawstring, the fullness might
migrate toward the elbow, affecting the ruffle.
Even though the look is styled after something simple, I can
imagine that Marie Antionette's dressmakers would do a more precise
job of it.
The hemmed edges look like hemmed edges to me. Bias tape was
not in use at the time, even binding an uneven edge they were using a
flat woven tape.
For suitable fabrics, I do remember seeing fine shirt-quality
linen, but it's pretty expensive. It might be easier (and cheaper) to
find a good shirt cotton. Unfortunately, when looking for sheers,
handkerchief linen is sheer but coarse. Have you searched for cotton
lawn? Some of the home decorating catalogs & stores carry sheer
cotton curtains.
-Carol
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