Elizabeth, I'm afraid that French Hose (aka pumpkin pants) were normally paned. I think what your customer may really want is Galley Hose. Galley Hose were full breeches, not paned or stuffed, that ended just above the knee. They were usually gathered into a band that could be covered in braid or lace or were sometimes with tied garters above or across the knee. They were different from French Hose in that they were neither paned nor stuffed, and had no canons (that's usually the dead giveaway earlier), though most were made of such stiff fabrics that they may as well have been stuffed. On the other hand, they differed from Venetians by ending above the knee, rather than below it. In the mid-sixteenth century, Galley Hose were seen more on the middle and lower classes, but by the first quarter of the next century, Galley Hose had replaced French Hose on the upper class and began to adopt canons.
Two good images of Galley Hose are http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Workman.jpg and http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5a/Edward_Herbert_1st_Baron_Herbert_of_Cherbury_by_Isaac_Oliver.jpg . I hope that helps, Margaret > > > > > I've been asked to help a friend make a pair of Elizabethan trunkhose (aka punpkin pants) and they have requested plain single layer trunkhose but all the extant examples of single layer (instead of panes with the lining pulled out through the slashes) in Patterns of Fashion are post 1600. So far I've not been able to find a pictorial or extant example of pre 1600 plain trunkhose (despite the number of examples I see in this style in modern costuming) I'm not going to actually make a pair of paned trunkhose (as this plus a doublet have to be complete by Easter) but I would like to know whether it is period or a reenactorism. Any leads on period examples of non paned trunkhose would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Elizabeth _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
