On Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 9:18 AM, R. Rochte <[email protected]> wrote: > I have finally found a local supplier who carries Thermax HD (my > building site is in the upper peninsula of Michigan). He stocks the > 2" thickness and can order other sizes as needed. I have a few > questions for those with experience - please feel free to reply in > detail here or just point me to the appropriate URL if you have one: > > 1. Is there an "ideal" thickness of Thermax HD to use? I will have > significant snow loads to deal with in the winter and the more > insulation I can get, the better. But the 2" boards are already $53 > each and sound like they will be more than a handful to manipulate on > site. > > 2. Given the inevitability of LOTS of snow, should I necessarily use > the Pentayurt design? Or will the greater rigidity of Thermax HD > allow me to use a regular Hexayurt? > > 3. Are there more weatherproof seam-sealing solutions than using tape > or will the tape withstand repeat exposure to cold and wet? If the > tape won't withstand such exposure, how have others protected it from > the elements? > > 4. I happen to have a concrete slab already in place where I plan to > build this... Any suggestions on anchoring? I have a friend who is > well-versed in conventional building techniques, so I know that he can > help me drill the slab and put in anchors - just tie to these instead > of using stakes, etc.? > > 5. Has anyone experimented with combining the increased strength of > OSB with Thermax HD? That is, still using the Thermax in a structural > role rather than only as insulation? >
*You may want to consider using 3/8 plywood. OSB is less water resistant and would begin to buckle / warp. The 3/8 inch plywood, although it seems flimsy, when used in a Stress Skin Panel it adds considerable rigidity and strength. * * * *A Stress Skin panel is basically taking the foam and plywood and bonding them together with construction adhesive. Since there are MANY kinds of construction adhesive, I'd check with the manufacturers recommendation so you don't "melt" you insul board with the glue.* * * *You may also consider roofing tin on top of the angles sections to encourage sliperiness. You would need a "snow catcher" over the door area so it does not fall into the front of the door.* * * *I could see the top panels in the following way:* * * *Thin flat roofing tin on the outside, insul board in middle, 3/8 inch plywood on inside. If you wanted CRAZY strength, you could add a "Spline" which is a fitted into the ends of the panel. they would allow them to be bolted together for greater strength, and then easylit disassembled/ tape would still be used exteriorly for sealing up the hexayurt, but you could use metal / Alumninum duct tape.* * * *I'll try to do some CAD drawings of what i am talking about later today.* * * *Sincerely Yours* * * *Cody....* * * *I don't have a degree, but i'm "Rather Clever" :-)* > > If these questions seem trivial, please realize that I have many ideas > of my own about each one but I would prefer - whenever possible - to > hear the advice and learn of the experiences of those who have gone > before me. I haven't found detailed answers to any of these on the > web, but if you have a URL that I haven't found you are more than > welcome to send it to me along with the standard, "RTFM!". > > Thanks! > > Regards, > Robert > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
