And thinking about reducing the weight of the floor panels, i think
a splined tin faced roof panel would be very lightweight and very strong.

I'll do some calculations on it and see how it work out.


On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 9:15 AM, Cody Firestone <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>
> On Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 9:18 AM, R. Rochte <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have finally found a local supplier who carries Thermax HD (my
>> building site is in the upper peninsula of Michigan).  He stocks the
>> 2" thickness and can order other sizes as needed.  I have a few
>> questions for those with experience - please feel free to reply in
>> detail here or just point me to the appropriate URL if you have one:
>>
>> 1. Is there an "ideal" thickness of Thermax HD to use?  I will have
>> significant snow loads to deal with in the winter and the more
>> insulation I can get, the better.  But the 2" boards are already $53
>> each and sound like they will be more than a handful to manipulate on
>> site.
>>
>> 2. Given the inevitability of LOTS of snow, should I necessarily use
>> the Pentayurt design?  Or will the greater rigidity of Thermax HD
>> allow me to use a regular Hexayurt?
>>
>> 3. Are there more weatherproof seam-sealing solutions than using tape
>> or will the tape withstand repeat exposure to cold and wet?  If the
>> tape won't withstand such exposure, how have others protected it from
>> the elements?
>>
>> 4. I happen to have a concrete slab already in place where I plan to
>> build this... Any suggestions on anchoring?  I have a friend who is
>> well-versed in conventional building techniques, so I know that he can
>> help me drill the slab and put in anchors - just tie to these instead
>> of using stakes, etc.?
>>
>> 5. Has anyone experimented with combining the increased strength of
>> OSB with Thermax HD?  That is, still using the Thermax in a structural
>> role rather than only as insulation?
>>
>
> *You may want to consider using 3/8 plywood. OSB is less water resistant
> and would begin to buckle / warp. The 3/8 inch plywood, although it seems
> flimsy, when used in a Stress Skin Panel it adds considerable rigidity and
> strength.  *
> *
> *
> *A Stress Skin panel is basically taking the foam and plywood and bonding
> them together with construction adhesive.  Since there are MANY kinds of
> construction adhesive, I'd check with the manufacturers recommendation so
> you don't "melt" you insul board with the glue.*
> *
> *
> *You may also consider roofing tin on top of the angles sections to
> encourage sliperiness.  You would need a "snow catcher" over the door area
> so it does not fall into the front of the door.*
> *
> *
> *I could see the top panels in the following way:*
> *
> *
> *Thin flat roofing tin on the outside, insul board in middle, 3/8
> inch plywood on inside.  If you wanted CRAZY strength, you could add a
> "Spline" which is a fitted into the ends of the panel.  they would allow
> them to be bolted together for greater strength, and then easylit
> disassembled/  tape would still be used exteriorly for sealing up the
> hexayurt, but you could use metal / Alumninum duct tape.*
> *
> *
> *I'll try to do some CAD drawings of what i am talking about later today.*
> *
> *
> *Sincerely Yours*
> *
> *
> *Cody....*
> *
> *
> *I don't have a degree, but i'm "Rather Clever"    :-)*
>
>>
>> If these questions seem trivial, please realize that I have many ideas
>> of my own about each one but I would prefer - whenever possible - to
>> hear the advice and learn of the experiences of those who have gone
>> before me.  I haven't found detailed answers to any of these on the
>> web, but if you have a URL that I haven't found you are more than
>> welcome to send it to me along with the standard, "RTFM!".
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Regards,
>> Robert
>>
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>>
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