Just that a 4x8 solid piece will be stronger than two triangles.

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 at 10:41:48 AM UTC-7, lemondealc wrote:
>
> It's only a really small section so Id think the flat roof is fine. What 
> is the reason for having the pics coplaner? Easier to assemble?
>
> On Saturday, September 9, 2017, Bob Hearn <[email protected] <javascript:>> 
> wrote:
>
>> It occurred to me that the pairs of triangles that are almost coplanar 
>> could be made coplanar, and thus made into solid 4x8 panels, if I'm willing 
>> to split the top irregular piece into two pieces. This would seem to be a 
>> bit stronger:
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Lrh1QPfXpm4/WbQhwJnTIdI/AAAAAAAABJg/WHe90aiqWL0qP045aDXQO7NtHWvCPvtlQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-09%2Bat%2B9.48.16%2BAM.png>
>>
>>
>> So, I'm leaning this way now. Thoughts? I guess the flat top is worse for 
>> rain...
>>    
>>
>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 5:25:00 PM UTC-7, Bob Hearn wrote:
>>>
>>> Cool, thanks, guys!
>>>
>>> So, nobody's worried about stability?
>>>
>>> I'm going to start modding my H12 as soon as I settle on attachment 
>>> strategy (velcro, etc.). I think maybe I can assemble the entire thing 
>>> myself with velcro, and a short stepladder. The top piece is challenging, 
>>> but could maybe be velcroed from the inside, with tape handles inside the 
>>> top piece to pull on to get enough pressure. For rain proofing, maybe 
>>> attach a small nylon skirt to the top piece, that flops over the edges of 
>>> the adjoining pieces, maybe weighted. Elsewhere, orient the velcro seams to 
>>> keep out rain. Also maybe velcro the tarp to the bottom edges.
>>>
>>> I have to figure out the roof-section hinge parity, and play with the 
>>> model to convince myself I can attach it to the walls edge-by-edge, without 
>>> assembling the roof as a unit first. Placing the roof on the base of the 
>>> H12 took four of us.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 4:24:56 PM UTC-7, Vinay Gupta wrote:
>>>>
>>>> OH I totally wasn't understanding that until I saw the CAD model - I 
>>>> didn't see how the doorway worked.
>>>>
>>>> That's great! That would be incredibly useful because doors are hard, 
>>>> and being able to prefab a 4x8 door unit and just drop it into the design 
>>>> would be great.
>>>>
>>>> Nice work!
>>>>
>>>> V>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>> *Vinay Gupta *  * [email protected] *  *http://re.silience.com* 
>>>> <http://re.silience.com>
>>>> *Free Science and Engineering in the Global Public Interest*
>>>> UK Cell : +44 (0)7500 895568 Twitter/Skype/Gtalk: hexayurt
>>>> "In the midst of winter,  I finally learned that there was 
>>>>         in me an invincible summer" - Albert Camus
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 12:12 AM, Bob Hearn <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks. However, maybe it's a pipe dream, but I want to be able to set 
>>>>> it up and break it down solo.
>>>>>
>>>>> I solved for the dimensional parameters of this "5-1/2 yurt" in 
>>>>> Mathematica (the back-wall angle, 112.4°, determines the rest of the 
>>>>> geometry), and modeled it in Rhino, to figure out area, volume, etc. 
>>>>> Here's 
>>>>> a 5'11" guy next to it.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XvO9NYhcGFk/WbHRJ0Q1HrI/AAAAAAAABIo/XGWXReLupAUn1bpPT2e5ft7jvKpRRn_aQCLcBGAs/s1600/h5.5.png>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Here's all the info, compared to other popular designs:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y7_qiM2txzU/WbHRSa1ROLI/AAAAAAAABIs/A21_M9IJSLoHOWyelPJllY0xZxQ_C_OwACLcBGAs/s1600/h5.5-table.png>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> My collaborator here, Greg, has this to say:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "In the H12, the rope loop and guys pull the roof together and down 
>>>>> against the walls, and also pull the (tops of the) walls in towards the 
>>>>> middle. It's a pretty secure arrangement and the net force is straight 
>>>>> down.
>>>>>
>>>>> In the new design, I don't see a way to neatly pull all of the pieces 
>>>>> together and end up with a net force straight down... but it may not be a 
>>>>> problem in practice, especially if the panels are attached securely and 
>>>>> the 
>>>>> structure starts out relatively stiff.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm mostly worried about where the roof attaches to the top of the 
>>>>> door panel and where the vertical "roof" triangles are stacked on top of 
>>>>> the walls on either side of the door. In the worst case, if the door 
>>>>> panel 
>>>>> ends up carrying some weird loads that it can't handle, it could be 
>>>>> reinforced with plywood (as you suggested)."
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> But then, those vertical triangles stacked on top of walls also exist 
>>>>> on the H13, which by now must be considered pretty battle-tested?
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:25:47 AM UTC-7, Hunter King wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Velcro has been good to us. ~10 mins setup time. You need one tall 
>>>>>> person inside for teardown and two people outside.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 6:15 PM, Bob Hearn <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I just got back from Burning Man 2017, using an H12 I bought from 
>>>>>>> Reno Hexayurt. I was pretty happy with it (especially when attached to 
>>>>>>> my 
>>>>>>> large swamp cooler), but a campmate (also bought Reno H12) and I are 
>>>>>>> wondering how best to (1) increase the door height, and (2) speed up 
>>>>>>> set up 
>>>>>>> / break down, ideally allowing single-person assembly. I guess an H13 
>>>>>>> would 
>>>>>>> be the default choice for a taller door, but...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've been playing with cardboard models, and came up with this, 
>>>>>>> which I haven't seen anywhere else:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AXBmIP330Jk/Wa9Iz8VsSxI/AAAAAAAABH4/D_YSoKDo_S0E1vKLX04ltoNaRaNRh6R-wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1429.JPG>
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tW2NVcRT9tI/Wa9I6t2IQvI/AAAAAAAABH8/8tw3MCmUzsExBrgNAt0ZxUsLqAc6WcttACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1430.JPG>
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mrAFfSdw-cw/Wa9JBnIWkMI/AAAAAAAABIA/euZcHLAANmQ5dSxUHFNmKhqkfMmV4msbgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1431.JPG>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It's kind of a 5-1/2 yurt, I guess, made from 13 panels: five 
>>>>>>> ordinary walls, one vertical panel for the door, roof made from six 
>>>>>>> panels, 
>>>>>>> plus the top piece which is an odd shape (4-8-8 isoceles).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> One cool thing is that the roof (apart from the top piece) can fold 
>>>>>>> as a single permanently hinged unit, rather than the two needed for an 
>>>>>>> H12:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FHtB0xx_DEI/Wa9KAzGGZjI/AAAAAAAABII/B3RoEjwFGlU_QX5KwdaeJok6NnVNznwwQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1435.JPG>
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H0nqnGtsYXI/Wa9KHDdYeSI/AAAAAAAABIM/PnweExqevYUvGJPcfjUivb_6eVcG9vm5QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1433.JPG>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So that's an idea for a taller door, slightly less sf than the H12 
>>>>>>> (which is more than big enough for me and my wife), and a lot more head 
>>>>>>> room. But, I am worried about stability. Anyone have any thoughts there?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As for quicker assembly, we've been thinking zippers, velcro, rods 
>>>>>>> threaded through eyelets, bungie balls, cable ties... I see some good 
>>>>>>> discussion in this forum on velcro. But that would seem to still have 
>>>>>>> one 
>>>>>>> of the disadvantages of taping the non-permanent hinges, namely 
>>>>>>> reachability for the roof section. Zippers you can work from a long 
>>>>>>> pole. 
>>>>>>> Of course for all of these you also have the waterproofing issue.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It's a long time to BM 2018, I know, but this is what's in my head 
>>>>>>> now; might as well work on it!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any input would be appreciated; thanks!
>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>
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