Opinion: the great strength (sic) of Velcro is its shear (parallel to the
surface) resistance. If I understand right, putting the velcro on the edges
would depend on pull resistance.

But wait! You also get: if you fasten two solid edges with Velcro, you have
to get it to release along the whole surface at once. (Even if you get a
knife-edge into it, it's going to close up along the retreating edge of the
knife.) Peeling it up if it's flap-to-surface means you can work on it
gradually.

On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 1:04 PM Bob Hearn <bob.he...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I've been working on turning my H12 into a 5-1/2 yurt (see "Has anyone
> built a yurt like this?" thread), and I'm beveling the edges. And planning
> on using velcro for the temporary seams.
>
> Some friends were over helping me this morning, and the question arose, is
> it feasible to apply the velcro directly to the beveled edges (after
> taping), so they mate directly, rather than taping to the wall surfaces, in
> which case a skirt is needed on one side? My first reaction was that would
> sacrifice too much strength, but after thinking some more, I'm not so sure.
> Wondering whether to cancel the order for 8 rolls of 15' x 2" velcro that I
> just placed!
>
> Opinions?
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 4:03:35 PM UTC-7, Steve Upstill (Swifty)
> wrote:
>
>> Sadly, I managed to buy velcro that didn't have its own adhesive, hence
>> my confusion. Using the bifi for the other face makes sense, assuming it's
>> covered in Aluminum tape. In retrospect, I have to concede that the Cordura
>> was overkill.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 2:30 PM Bob Hearn <bob....@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Maybe I misinterpreted your comment. It seems to me:
>>>
>>> You have two pieces to each velcro edge. One (say loops) you can stick
>>> directly on the polyiso with its own adhesive -- or are you suggesting an
>>> external adhesive is needed here too? The problem I experienced is, if
>>> you're not careful it will pull the aluminum right off the board when you
>>> try to pull the velcro apart. The velcro's own adhesive seems plenty strong
>>> to adhere to the aluminum coating. But then I've only tested it over a
>>> week...
>>>
>>> The other side of the velcro (hooks) must be extended somehow from the
>>> adjoining polyiso piece. That's what you use cordura and barge cement for,
>>> right? I was just asking why not just use bifi and aluminum tape for this.
>>> I've seen reports of yurts where the permanent bifi hinges have held up for
>>> years. And if they fail, they are easy enough to repair onsite with more
>>> tape.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 11:50:19 AM UTC-7, Steve Upstill
>>> (Swifty) wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hmm, not sure I'm getting the picture. If there's velcro on the sticky
>>>> side of the bifi, don't you still need to attach the other side of the
>>>> velcro to the polyiso?
>>>>
>>>> But even if that improves the attachment scenario, I wouldn't trust
>>>> bifi to hold up over years. The dry desert is pretty hard on it, even if
>>>> it's covered. I attached my velcro to Barge-cemented Cordura.
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 10:45 AM Bob Hearn <bob....@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Perhaps a stupid question, but what is wrong with just using 6"
>>>>> bifilament tape, 4" on the polyiso, 2" extending out with the velcro
>>>>> attached to it, and covering the bifi with aluminum tape? All those things
>>>>> are already in our toolkit with no need for gluing.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 10:42:46 AM UTC-7, Steve Upstill
>>>>> (Swifty) wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Yeah, I like the velcro solution a lot (I had essentially zero tape
>>>>>> usage this year). But Barge Cement was not a magic-bullet solution to
>>>>>> gluing it down. Do we have a definitive adhesive for attaching to the 
>>>>>> foil?
>>>>>> That seems to me the major weakness of this whole hexayurt scenario. 
>>>>>> Should
>>>>>> be possible though, right, since bifi does such a good job adhering?...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 10:29 AM Bob Hearn <bob....@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Ah, thanks for that insight. I'm leaning towards velcroing mine. But
>>>>>>> this year I had velcro straps for securing my swamp cooler to the yurt, 
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> yes, I tore off some aluminum breaking it down.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 10:19:19 AM UTC-7, Steve Upstill
>>>>>>> (Swifty) wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Be careful with that industrial-strength Velcro. It's not
>>>>>>>> necessarily the case that stronger is better, since its internal bond 
>>>>>>>> can
>>>>>>>> easily be stronger than whatever you use to glue it down to the 
>>>>>>>> polyiso. I
>>>>>>>> still struggle with the ends of mine coming unglued from the panel on
>>>>>>>> teardown, to say nothing of its grabbiness as a stumbling block when
>>>>>>>> stacking/unstacking panels.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've got a truncated-pyramid "Aztec" yurt, not a hexi, but I wish
>>>>>>>> there was Velcro that was a little less enthusiastic.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 2:38 PM Jeremy Shaw <jer...@n-heptane.com>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I beveled mine (the hard way). Totally worth it. Makes the whole
>>>>>>>>> thing fit together nicely. I can ratchet strap it down nice and tight 
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> it is very solid.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> You can also save time on the playa by using 2" Wide Industrial
>>>>>>>>> Strength Velcro Tape. Then when you get to the playa you just velco
>>>>>>>>> everything together, and at the end you undo the velcro and pack it 
>>>>>>>>> up. No
>>>>>>>>> waste and faster setup and breakdown.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> - jeremy
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Sun, Jul 23, 2017 at 2:37 PM, rymar <ryanma...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I haven't come across an easy way to bevel edges of yurt but on 1"
>>>>>>>>>> thickness panels does it make a difference? I would like to get as 
>>>>>>>>>> much
>>>>>>>>>> taping done before I get to the playa and am wondering if I should 
>>>>>>>>>> bevel or
>>>>>>>>>> not. Thanks.
>>>>>>>>>>
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