My two cents on the main sheet/vang question . . . That diagram you're referring to might be old. The docs that came with my boat were from the original 1994 drawings and some are just off. It's not surprising since they would have tweaked a few things in the 9 years before they made my 2003 boat (I'm guessing yours might be a 2004???).
I have separate lines for the mainsheet and the vang with a cam cleat at the base of the mast for the vang. I can see how the original design of combining the two into one line made sense so you could control the pressure on the boom (and therefore mainsail shape) from the cockpit. My complete guess is that since both our boats have the same setup, that Catalina changed it at some point to give folks greater control over the vang. It's just personal preference at this point, although I rarely adjust my vang. I believe "LE" was an early term on the 270 and denoted an upgraded model (with the hot water heater, etc). At some point, I think Catalina dropped LE and all the 270s had the upgraded features. Mike --- In [email protected], Ron Ginter <rongin...@...> wrote: > > Hi Phil, > > Sorry to hear that you've been under the weather. Heck of a time of year to > be sick, eh? Hopefully you are ship-shape again! > > I'm struggling a bit with your terminology, but it's very helpful to know > what these things are called. Regarding the main sheet, I was referring to a > diagram in the owner's manual that shows how the double-ended sheet should be > strung from the cam cleat just over the companionway, through the fiddle > block, to the vang, then back under the doghouse (love that term!) to the > starboard clutch. My original question was whether this was a good way to do > it, or was there some reason for the PO to separate the fiddle block and the > vang? > > I was also wondering whether it was worthwhile to remove the doghouse in > order to string the line under it. I was planning to stick a wire through > and hook the line and pull it back to the cockpit, similar to what you've > described. However, if removing the doghouse is as simple as removing a few > bolts, then I could clean the "windows" at the same time which have dirt and > leaves in between the panels. > > Regarding the foresail sheet blocks, I don't know what distinguishes a cheek > block from any other type, and I've never seen a block with a "line stopper". > My current blocks are integral with the cars on the track mounted on the > cabin top, and they can swivel side to side but can't twist. Thus the sheet > usually enters at an angle, and leaves the block at an angle as well. When > tacking, the sheet that has been released tends to bind because it is being > pulled sideways to the block's sheave. Does that make sense? I can't get to > the boat to take a picture until next week since this weekend I'll be > attending my father's 99th birthday party! I figured that if the block could > twist as with the one that Andy referenced, then all would run much more > smoothly. However, I can see why you are saying that there should be a > stopper of some sort since one might need to use the winch for something else > without releasing the sheet. I'd love to see your setup. > > You had asked at one point whether my boat is an LE, and I'm not sure. It is > not mentioned in the manual, but I do have the water heater. Is there any > surefire way to know if it is an LE? > > ...Ron (C270 #329; Oculus; Frenchman's Bay, Ontario) > > > On 2010 Jul 07, at 2:28 PM, Phil Agur wrote: > > > > > > > Hi Ron, > > > > I've been sick for couple of weeks and let your C270 questions slip by but > > at least one of your comments struck me as strange this morning so let try > > to start over. > > > > My original mainsheet was double ended. The was 6:1 fiddle block (similar > > to a vang set) with a cam cleat the rode on the traveler and what we'd > > think of as the bitter end went down along the vang to a turning block over > > to the deck organizer and back under the dog house to the starboard rope > > clutch. This allows you to pick up the load with the winch if you need to. > > We have a dodger so a fiddle set with a rear facing control line on the > > traveler put the windshield at risk. > > > > From the factory the boat comes with messenger lines running under the dog > > house. If your PO pulled a line out getting it back takes a little > > forethought, since we trailer Wing Tip rigging and unrigging is a way of > > life so we have it covered. We keep a green plastic plant stake with a > > medium sided alligator clip attached on the side tray in the aft cabin. > > When squeezed fully it can just get around a 5/16" line. We simple side it > > forward under the dog house from the cockpit side and position the tip of > > the clip horizontally between the organizer sheaves where we want a > > particular line run. Then I simply open the clip with the tips of my > > multi-tool pliers and insert tip of the line. Pulling it trough is easy if > > it doesn't kink out by the organizer. Getting the end through the clutch is > > a bit tricky and may require you to whip or sew a couple of inches line to > > keep it from expanding as you push it through. Sometimes giving it bit of a > > spin clear the fibers that were starting to catch on the jaws and it just > > runs through. > > > > The turning blocks after the headsail foreleads on Wing Tip look like they > > were altered by my dealer. It's his practice to order boats without all the > > deck hardware installed and do it in house to save some cost on the boat > > from the factory. Our turning blocks (a hefty Lewmar cheek block with a > > line stopper) are up on a riser and positioned such that the line come > > cleanly back along the fairlead track and then turns up and in to meet the > > base of the CST30 correctly. It maybe the line selected for the sheets is > > too stiff to run through the block, or the block position is off but ours > > works well. I think swapping pictures would help. I don't think you can > > make that swivel block and maintain the line stopper function, which is > > required to sail the boat safely. > > > > Phil Agur s/v Wing Tip > > C270 LE #184 MMSI 366901790 > > > > > > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ron > > Ginter > > Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 6:16 AM > > To: [email protected] > > Subject: [IC27A] Rigging questions > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > The weather has been fantastic so I've been on the boat a lot. As tends to > > happen to most of us I assume, I'm out there cruising along and I start > > musing about the sails, the rigging, and the performance... > > > > 1) The owner's manual for my C270 shows the main sheet block and tackle set > > up with one line that also runs to the boom vang and then back to the > > starboard side sheet-stopper right beside the main halyard. Mine is set up > > with the main sheet separate from the boom vang. There's a slip cleat for > > the main sheet on the traveller as you'd expect, and the vang has a slip > > cleat too for its separate line, and nothing is routed back to the cockpit. > > Is there any reason for the PO to change it this way? If I change it back > > to original, and I need to run the line to the cockpit, do I need to remove > > the cover, or can I just fish it through with a wire? Does the cover come > > off with a few screws from inside the cabin? > > > > 2) The blocks for the foresail sheets look very nice but don't seem to work > > well. The sheet is always binding when released for a tack. It seems to me > > that the block should swivel because the sheet is pulling a little sideways > > to the winch. Or am I missing something? > > > > Now I'm off to the boat. Yet another day of 30 degree heat, nary a cloud in > > the sky, and 15 knot winds on Lake Ontario. Ahhhh..... <g> > > > > ...Ron (C270 #329 Oculus) > > > > > > > > >
