I don't claim to have Phil's professional training or experience, but I've been soldering small electronics since I was a kid. With that in mind:
Soldering solid gauge wire is a serious pain in the neck since I usually only have a 15w pencil iron or its butane equivalent. For those I'll crimp on connectors, preferable Ancor, but the only ratcheting crimper I have is an Ideal set with an RG58/59/6 die. Think I can get a die for it suitable for Ancor connectors? Soldering stranded wire is of course much easier, if the gauge isn't too thick to prevent good wicking of the solder. If not it seems to end up as a cold solder joint that breaks. I too use heat shrink on my finished product. This is just my two cents ... David On Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 6:23 PM, Ralph Ahseln <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hey Phil, > > I don't disagree with your assessment at all. In fact I Crimp most of my > fittings. I reserve Soldering for the proper and timely applications. > > It's quite true that a Bad soldering is bad in many ways. > It's also true that a poor Crimp (even with a ratchet tool) is as bad. > By the way, I have and can, teach how to solder properly in less than an > hour. > > I guess the problem I have with most comments about soldering is the > mythology that seems to follow it. > That doing it somehow "Weakens" the wire/connection. > (I've even heard it used to discourage someone from Tinning a bare wire. ?? > ). > Even the line often said.. "vibration prone" needs a good deal more > explanation. Too often it's used as a "mysterious" threat. > There's even a kind of thinking that it's the OLD Fashioned way. > As in Most things of this nature, THE....Where, What, When and Type of > Application.. should be paramount in explanations. > IMHO, Both methods should be taught. Then the argument would be over. LOL > > To simply say to use a Crimper may be misleading. And sure as hell it's > and expensive tool for a Do it yourself person. IMHO. > For me personally, I would be reluctant to suggest someone spend nearly > $100 for a ratchet crimper .. > .... to do ONE or TWO splices or connectors....When a soldered connector, > a liberal covering of Glue Gun Glue (it's what's in an Adhesive Heat Shrink > connector), and some inexpensive heat shrink tubing, would cost under a > couple of bucks.. And last as well. > > The Crimp is a wonderful development for us in the world of Electrics, but > has some draw backs as well. > The incorrect Die, improper tension, and not the least of which, poor "Lay" > of the wire strands... All can make a bad crimp. > As to "vibration prone". There should be a discussion about the > mechanical stress put on copper wire by the "Shear Pressure" of crimping. > > Yes, I suppose there have been tests done to "Prove" one better than the > other, And, I'm sure there is a ton of Anecdotal experiences ( I never trust > a memory or observation that's Second Hand).... But, What we do here on our > boats is NOT Rocket Science. > The "G" forces seen in a Catalina 27 or 270 surely are a BIT less than the > Mars Probes ! > > Me? I use both methods. I paid the high price for a Ratchet Crimp Tool > because I had a lot of Electrical connections to do .. on MY boat and on a > couple of Friend's boats.. The Ability to make up Many connectors in a short > time .. without having to deal with a heated iron, rosin core solder, > Adhesive glue and tubing, was the reason I bought the Crimper, > But, when project Fits....(like most UNDER water applications) or, the > occasion arises and the iron is near, I'll do a Soldering job. > > What I'd love to see is more of a practical approach to Advice and Council > on our Forums. > Suggestions of Many Options and Other Methods, rather than a One Size Fits > All... or the suggestion of " I wouldn't do it THAT way"... > Or, what is Anathema to me... To simple "Throw Money at the Problem" > > As I said, I'd like us to lay out all the possibilities open to the Do It > Yourselfer, rather than scare the Bejesus out of them. > > With Respect as Always, > ralph ahseln > "Oblio" > Lying: Portland OR > > > *From:* Phil Agur <[email protected]> > *Sent:* Thursday, July 29, 2010 2:59 PM > *To:* [email protected] > *Subject:* RE: [IC27A] Long time lurker......1st time poster > > > > Hi Ralph, > > You can buy wire where the strands are tin plated or you can buy wire where > the bundle of strands is “tinned” with an over coat of solder. The “tinned” > is more prone to vibration failure. > > I think our only disagreement on soldering is how long it takes to become > an expert at soldering. I’d guess more than 75% (ok right out of the air) of > the folks that think they know how to solder actual don’t and get luck from > time to time. It takes a good 2 or 3 days of instruction to learn how to > solder and the certification test is several hours. On the other hand I can > tell someone which terminals and crimper to use and be fairly assured they > will achieve a quality connection as a result. > > I’m not opposed to soldering, having lectured on soldering techniques at 26 > assembly sites in the US for Intel one year, I’m just certain it’s not > something that is easy to pick up on your own. > > *Phil Agur* *s/v** Wing > Tip*<http://www.catalina27.org/public_pages/profile270.htm> > C270 LE #184 MMSI 366901790 > > *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf > Of *Ralph Ahseln > *Sent:* Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:24 PM > *To:* [email protected] > *Subject:* Re: [IC27A] Long time lurker......1st time poster > > > > Huh ? > > What ? > > Explain please . > > (As many old timers here know, Phil and I have had a long term , friendly, > disagreement about Soldering and Tinning.) > > Respectfully, > > Ralph Ahseln > > "Oblio" > > *From:* Phil Agur <[email protected]> > > "........ It should be tin plated stranded copper wire but not “Tinned” > in theory*......"* > > >
