> Dear Sue. > Incidentally, I was taught when learning Bucks Point lace, that it wasn't necessary to tension the lace as one went, because the weight of the bobbins (spangled midlands) should provide enough tension with such fine thread. Rather one should keep the bobbins well spread apart and swing the bobbins from side to side as one worked, this action providing tension too. Hmmmmm. I find it all depends on 2 elements: viz. - the type of thread you are using - cotton and linen need far more tensioning than silk - how many CTTTs you do in a pass before pinning. I usually do 7 then pin, but with fine silks can easily go to 11.
Then after pinning I give the worker a tug and all line up nicely David in Ballarat David, I also like to do a whole row of ground and then go back and put in the pins, or not sometimes! If it's a small area the footside and the motif on the other side will hold the ground in place nicely. I'm doing a little Ipswich edging and there are two prickings - one with the pinholes for the ground and one without. Diane Williams [email protected] Galena Illinois USA My blog - http://dianelaces.wordpress.com/ ________________________________ From: David C COLLYER <[email protected]> To: Sue Babbs <[email protected]>; Arachne <[email protected]> Sent: Wed, February 3, 2010 9:03:11 AM Subject: Re: [lace] Breaking threads / tensioning - To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to [email protected] - To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to [email protected]
