i have been following this BREAKING thread also
it is a big problem
its even an enormous problem
but it is seldon a problem due to one factor
it is mostly a combination of more then one
have a look in depth in the problem
someone mentioned it already
colouring can do various dammage to threads/fibres
in some colouring processes you have to use quite strong mordants to
make the pigment stick to the fibres
for having some special colours you need special pigmetns
special pigments means sometimes that it needs other chemicals to make
the colour attach itself to the thread/fibres
these chemicals can do a lot of damage to the fibres......
now special colours means mostly more expensive pigments
more expensive proces to get the endresult
i hope you can all feel it comming
ofcourse their is always the cheaper alternative
an alternative were it looks just a bit differend
but almost the same
a bit more agresssive mordants
a bit stronger pigment
a bit more of this and that of cheaper products will do the trick
"""""for jsut a bit of time""""
i hope that all of you have had already the experience of some drops of
bleach (natrium hypochloriet) on a jeans
if you are fast and spool it out under a lot of watter you can be lucky
not to have any stains
if you have not seen it that while beeing the cleaning queen and a drop
of bleach here and there on your clothes.....
you wil end up whit a stain and mostlikly if it is strong bleach.... you
can even have a so stongly weakend spot that it falls apart
the cotton justs "desinegrate" into cottondust
there it is clear again
bleaching threads is a hasard
you need to know what to do
the just amount of bleach or peroxide but not to damage it
and to reinice it all out again hit loooooott of water
so immage those cheaper produxcts
stronger as they are
more agressive as they most are
(but cheaper....)
you need to know hat you are doing
if you use strong agressive products you need to neutralise them again
and then absolutly neutralised or they wil slumer, keep working slowly
but steddy and do the dammage
on a moment you do not need it
mostly there in a work were it is difficult torectify it
weel we all have had it seen it or ......
an other problem
is that sometimes colouring does not give the needed or wanted result
because the light yellow is not anymore good to use because it was not
light enough or do dark
then what will you do?
trow all the fibres or thread away?
NOOOOO
you will start looking for a solution
it is often used into an compete other dark colour
so then you do not have a one coulour attack on the fibres but a second too
as an example
you needed pistachio green but it turns to be sage green
the client will not like it so you take a new batch of threads and do it
over
but the sagegreen will be used to re"paint" it into for example very
dark green or black
if you are a realy cheap person as a factory you will even try to undo
the colour by a particular bleaching proces
based on the absorbtion of some kinds of salts and recouler it afterwards
can you see it virtualy in front of you????
first colouring
then bleaching
then coloring again
after some proceses like this your thread looks like the head of a
16year old blond whom tried evry week again on other colour
she ends up whit a bunch of straw brittle hair.....
she cant help it she is blond
but the factory knows.......
so the tricky part is to make it again presentable ot the end user
easyyyy
there are again chemicals to use to cover up the "yarngate-scandal
yes you heard me well again chemicalsthey wil temporaraly stabilise the
thread
the cheapest way to do is transparent silicon spray
there are a lot more other therapys to do
now there was the sugestion of the way you put the spool of thred to
wind in on your bobins
that is blabla
there are very few added on or taken of twists to it
easy to calculate it
you take the diameter of the spool and multiply by PI 3.14 and you have
the outer diameter
lets say 1cm * 3.14= 3.14cm per extra twist
so if you needed 1 meter of thread on your bobin you have 100cm / 3.14
=31twist per meter extra
if you work into fine threads like 70/2 Nec you are around 400 to 600
twists per meter
that 31twists will be ignorant to the tbehavior of the thread
and again the Z or S and the adding or takeingof will be minimal
some will say now:
but if you need 10 meters it will be 10 times that amount?
not realy only the distance from the threadspool to the bobin counts
and then again you will fearly end up on an even dispercion of the added
or taken of twists
Mirian wrote that atmospheric conditions seems s not to effect her work
well it is not so much that it is dry or wet cold or warm whom will
effect thread breaking or not
but it is more the fact that it is continiously changing from dry to wet
to .......
a simple comparison is the violin and the piano
you need to adjust constantly if the moist in the room changes
ofcourse long periods of dry air can do dammaging but not so much as
changing from dry to wet and wet to dry and this repeated multiple of times
in our houses it is a constant changing .....
depending in what state (dry or moist) you did it on the bobins it wil
have its effect
alll higher then this is 100% correct
the last part is not so technical fundamented but a feeling
as Jean Leader told
you have persons whom will nerver roll from there self the bobbins and
others always roll the bobins
i beleeve it is due to the fact that most of us start of in thick
linnens an cotons
there the thread is coarse enough to compensate for itself if you have
twisted the lot tomuch
to bobins will because of the toughness of the threads unwind a bit naturaly
but then if you go to finer threads that natrualy toughness wil not
apply and instead of adjusting automaticly it will keep adding on or
takeing twists of
so you will have catastropy in the work
now the reason some do have it more then others is also very easy
look whom it is? mostly fast lacers
they do it fast and so they keep throwing them and not looking to much
to its turning effect
that also is an explication why the normany girls needed to do the
pillow thing
their income depended on the speeing up of the work
so they encountered that problem and coudl compensate a bit in the
holding of the pillow
any comments?
please give me input into your ideas
francis
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