I haven't had an issue with melting Etek solder at momentary currents up to
800 amps. The key is momentary. If I wanted cooling though, I think I'd go
with spraying CO2 on the motor during the run. I have had the brushes and
comm get warm, but there's enough cooling between runs to take care of that.
Darin
P.S. Check out my blog for an Etek Brush Timing investigation.
P.S.S. Mike, why are my pictures in that blog not showing up anymore?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "ElectricMotorcycles" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2007 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [ElectricMotorcycles] Ninja 250 conversion?
>Got one of these myself:
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91129
>works great for the price.
Good to hear. I almost bought one but was wondering if it was worth the
$.
http://www.electricvehiclesusa.com/schematics/etekmanual.pdf the etek can
take 330 amps for 1 minute, but whats not mentioned is how long the motor
would need to cool down afterwords, and at what temperature the test was
started at, presumable room temperature. I've heard that you can pull
What we need to do is to get a sample of the solder and melt it in a
control way.
Here's a couple of thoughts. First for the drag racer amongst us: What if
you could cool your motors before the race? I mean, like make some copper
coils that can slip over them in the pits that run off to a refrigerant
and get them really, really cold just before the run. Then slide the coils
off and away you go?
The other though is I wonder if cryogenics would help? I suspect not but
I'm tossing ideas out. Here's a list of cyro places if anyone wants to
follow up on it:
http://dmoz.org/Science/Technology/Cryotechnology/Cryogenic_Processing_of_Materials/
Mike
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