Jim Husted can be found at http://www.hitorqueelectric.com/ just click on his
contact link and choose your favorite form of communication :-)
Placing batteries is always difficult if you want a motorcycle with any real
range. I have used the saddle bag approach in the past. My current
arrangement includes half my batteries above the rear wheel behind the
passenger seat. I like this location best. You can see both here.
http://home.comcast.net/~damonhenry/ebike.htm> Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 21:38:15
-0500> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected]> Subject:
Re: [ElectricMotorcycles] More on motors> > Damon,> > Thanks for the info.> >
Where do I find this mystical motor magician Jim Husted?> > I've been wondering
about the freewheel myself. I've done quite a bit > of research on them though,
so I may just get one anyway. They are, > from my experience, not available for
1" shafts without going to really > bulky high torque couplings. My drive shaft
is 1" and the largest size > in the smallest coupling unit I've found is .750".
Given the DC motor > will only put out half the original power of the ICE, I
might just turn > the end of the shaft down to 3/4" to accommodate the
coupling. I have a > spare shaft to try it out with.> > The plan all along has
been 72v, if not more. I'm just having a hard > time fitting batteries on the
bike. I'm considering the "battery saddle > mount" approach, but was hoping to
contain them all within the frame.> > Seth> > > Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2007 16:54:38
+0000> > From: "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> > Subject: Re:
[ElectricMotorcycles] More on motors> > To: [email protected]> >
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> > Content-Type:
text/plain; format=flowed> >> > I don't think that there is any general
differences in the D&D and ADC > > motors that are relavant to your
application.> >> > There are two main things to consider when comparing similar
series wound > > motors, and they both have to do with how much current they
can handle. The > > first is the brushes. Looking at the size of the brushes
and the leads > > gives you a good idea of how much current they are designed
to handle, but > > be aware that even in just the ADC 6.7 inch line theses are
not always the > > same. There are 4 and 8 brush ADCs. On my motorcycle I have
a 4 brush ADC > > and it handles my 400 amp controller just fine. The second
thing to > > consider is thermal mass. Basically the more copper you have in a
motor the > > more mass it has to handle the heat produced by higher currents.
Again, > > sticking with just the ADC 6.7 inch line of motors there are several
> > different armature lengths. The longer armatures have more wire wrapped > >
around them and weigh more meaning it takes them longer to heat up to the > >
point that you have problems. Again on my motorcycle I have one of the > >
shorter ADC 6.7 inch motors, althouh not the shortest, and it handles my > >
riding without ever overheating. In summary, when compairing two similar > >
series wound motors you are generally better off going with the one that has >
> the beefiest brushes, and weighs the most. I strongly recommed working with >
> Jim Husted. He has access to lots of motors in this size because they are > >
commonly used as lift pumps on forklifts. He can pick you up a core for a > >
couple of hundred bucks, then build it into something special for a couple > >
hundred more. In the end you will usually end up with a rebuilt motor that > >
is better than brand new because he will modify it to fit your application. > >
The price is usually less than a brand new one will cost you, plus you > > will
have Jim to bounce any questions off of and he sends every EV motor out > >
with a little of his Hi Torque fairy dust :-)> >> > As far as the freewheel
thingy, it sounds like a lot of effort and very > > little reward. A series
wound electric motor already freewheels very > > nicely, so leaving everything
connected works just fine. My motorcylce > > rolls like crazy when I let off
the throttle.> >> > Finally, I strongly suggest going with 72 volts for any
motorcycle you are > > hoping to ride at freeway speeds. It can be done on
less, but going with 72 > > volts makes it much easier to keep good
acceleration and a high enough top > > end. I'm running 54 volts with the stock
14 to 41 gear ratio. I have > > decent acceleration and can just creep my way
to 60 mph. With a higher > > voltage controller I could change my gear ratio
and have better > > acceleration and a bit higher top end.> >> > damon> >> >> >
> >> From: "Seth A. Keel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> >> Reply-To: ElectricMotorcycles
<[email protected]>> >> To: [email protected]> >>
Subject: [ElectricMotorcycles] More on motors> >> Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2007
04:00:53 -0500> >>> >> Hello all,> >>> >> Great list. I've been following along
for about 3 months now and it's been > >> very helpful to hear the comments and
ideas from the members. Travis' post > >> has got me going, 'cause I'm
interested in motors too. There is a 1975 > >> Honda Gold Wing disassembled in
my basement and I'm trying to figure out > >> how to rebuild it. Which motor to
get is the current question and it's > >> such a pivotal one that the rest of
the design is waiting for it.> >>> >> Here are a few questions that I'm
struggling with.> >>> >> 1) What's the difference in quality between ADC and
D&D?> >>> >> 2) Can a PMG-132 push my sled at 60mph for 10 minutes without
overheating? > >> There's another 5 mi. of city driving on top of that to get
to my job. Can > >> it be done on 60v or or should it be done with 72v?> >>> >>
3) What's a typical watt/mi estimate for a bike that's around 1000lbs. with >
>> rider? I've been using 300watts/mi. in my calculations. Is that close?> >>>
>> 4) Do any of you use an overrunning clutch coupling, or something similar, >
>> so the motor shaft isn't directly linked to the final drive? An OCC is > >>
basically a freewheel. My diesel has a mpg readout in dash which, even if > >>
it's not perfectly accurate, definitely shows that disengaging the engine > >>
when it's not needed and coasting to stops saves a lot of fuel. I'd like > >>
to do the same with the EM without having to add a clutch. It would also > >>
eliminate any concern over the motor lockup issue that was discussed > >>
recently.> >>> >> Any thoughts or suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,> >>> >> Seth> >>> >>> >> > >> >
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