Vern,
I'm a long time owner of a mahogany on oak Hinckley Sou' Wester , a mahogany Lyman lapstrake runabout and I am a friend of George Smith who started working at Chris Craft at the age of 10 and ended up running the place with his brother till it was sold. The Smiths tried every kind of magic goop sold for clear finish and you can't get around the sun's destruction of anything it hits. The whole trick is to refresh before the finish starts to break down. Use traditional marine varnish, not plastic. Build up 7-10 coats if you strip and prepare the wood. Then it is easy. Every few months when the top layer starts to dull do a quick light sanding and a fresh coat of varnish. This takes less time than waxing fiberglass. ;-) In between you can touch up nicks with a bit of varnish. If you use plastic you can't do the touch up of course and other problems arise. Real varnish "melts" into the underlying layers and holds up better over the years than any other goop yet made. I have clear finished mahogany cabin sides, rails, coamings and spruce spars on the sail boat and clear transom, decks and interior on the Lyman that have not been wooded in over 30 years and they look great. As for stripping wood, a good heat gun and very sharp scraper. Keep a file in your back pocket and when the scraper stops squealing sharpen! This is very fast and effective and green and safe and PC and cheap. ;-) Bob _____ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Densler, Vernon Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 10:21 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [Liveaboard] Mahogany Finish What would be the best thing to use on my exposed mahogany? I don't want to mess with something like Cetol that is going to look like crap and have to be fully stripped every year. I always used to use teak oil on my teak. Should I do the same with the mahogany? Also are there any water safe paint strippers out there? Thanks, Vern
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