I agree with Lee's Comments, my own comments on lettered questions are below.   
 In addition, 100 W of solar panels will provide only 1/4-1/2 of the power 
needed to run a fridge, depending on size and efficiency of the fridge.
Lee Haefele  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lee 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 7:27 PM
  Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Electrical systems install


  Hi John,

   

      One thing that I would be concerned with your setup is the Morningstar 
6amp controller.  I have a morning star 30, I don't know what the amperage is 
for this unit, but I did select it so that I could add additional panels if I 
wanted to.  You might take a look at the rating vs. solar panels and the 
controller.  I have two 80 watt panels (8-9 amps in full sun) and I can add 
twice that to my system.  I also have 440 amp hrs battery bank that really 
needs more solar panels to maintain it running a 12v refrig 24/7.

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John 
Christensen
  Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 6:42 PM
  To: [email protected]
  Subject: [Liveaboard] Electrical systems install

   

  Dear list I am helping a friend install solar panels and wind generator and a 
new alternator. We have a plan but I would like to ask you if it sounds like a 
GOOD plan.

   

  1 The house bank is 430 amp hours (4 6volt golf cart batteries) they are in 
the port cockpit locker and a starting battery is in starboard 

   

  2 The wind generator WINDBUGGER is mounted on the mizzen with a 8 gauge wire. 
It is 30 ft to the comp. It goes to a 50 amp diode to another 25 amp breaker to 
the NC25A Charge controller. From the charge controller to the house batteries 
there is an additional 25 amp breaker. (This is according to the diagram that 
came with the Charge controller).

   

  3 Instead of the 1-2-both-off rotary switch we have installed a dual circuit 
battery switch (on-off-combine) made by blue seas, as well as a battery 
combiner (called a automatic charge controller) 

   

  4 Instead of running the 100 amp alternator to the common post on the old 
rotary switch, we put it to the house bank



  > I have this same arrangement, I am going to install a 250A fuse on the 
house + batt terminal.

   

  Our questions are:

   

  A. We have a 40 amp multi stage charger for 110 where do we put the battery 
charger wires?



  >Directly on the batteries, with one exception.  If you have a battery 
monitor system, (Highly recommended)   there is  a shunt on the negative 
battery wire, NOTHING ELSE connects to the battery minus terminal.  All 
connections go to the non battery side of the shunt.    Not sure of fuse 
recommendations for batt chargers, most have internal fuses, but this does 
leave the wire run unprotected.



   

  B. Is it correct that the wire from the wind generator goes to the house bank?

  > Sounds good with the circuit breakers or fuse mandatory.

   

  C. The two 50w solar panels are lead to another charge controller (a 
Morningstar 6amp) and then straight to the House bank is that correct?

  >  Good, but with fuses or breakers on both sides of the controller, also a 
disconnect 

  >switch between controller and battery.

   

  D. Is there a problem with charging from 3 sources, can anyone of the units 
burn out (mainly we are worried about the solar panels) because of the power 
coming from the other charging sources 

  >Power from the charging sources will not be a problem. BUT, If one unit 
fails, there 

  >will be available about 1000 amps from the battery, which is the reason for 
fuses and 

  >disconnects.  The solar panels usually have bypass diodes, if these short 
out (2 of 5 

  >did on a batch of Evergreen brand panels I bought) power from the battery 
will start the

  >solar panel wires on fire, if not correctly fused. (It did this on my 
friend's fuseless boat)

  >The solar controller will not let current flow back into the solar panels, 
unless it fails.

  >Newer solar panels have integral diodes that do not allow backwards current 
either.

  >The Bypass diode, which is there only for series`panel wiring is the failure 
danger.

  Lee Haefele

   

  This is how far we have come. Man there are so much to think about and 
neither of us are electricians so thanks so much for the input

   

  Regards John Miami

   

   

   



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