Brian White wrote: > Astonishingly, I was just able to print a functional carrier in PLA on a > Creality CR-10S. (A very common home $400 fdm printer from a year ago.)
Very nice result! It looks like you printed it flat on the bed. If I may make a suggestion, you may try to print it on the side (rotated 90ยบ along the long side). I'm saying this because thin printed parts like the side bits (which I assume are used to remove the carrier and PCB from the M100) can easily break along the layers separation. It looks like it could be a problem to remove the carrier if one or both of them would break. If you print on the side, it will probably take more time and you'll need a few supports but at least if the part break, it would be parallel to the long side of the PCB, and you'll still be able to pull the side bits to remove it (also, I think it would be a lot less likely to break). You may want to use a brim or a raft to avoid bed adhesion issues since there will be a lot less contact between the bed and the carrier. Gary Hammond wrote: > If the layers delaminate, the hot end temp is too low. > If the bridging sags, the hot end temp is too high, or you don?t have > sufficient cooling on the job. > If you see ?ripples? in the vertical sides, the drive belts need tightening, > or tolerances on the X/Y axis are sloppy. > If you see stringing, try more retraction. A good guide to diagnose and fix printing quality issues is the Simplify3D one: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ They give good advises and you don't need to use Simplify3D to apply their solutions. Eric
